KO and the Turk: Santo Stefano di Sessanio

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Santo Stefano di Sessanio - walled medieval city

We wanted to stay in the San Grasso National Park for more hiking, so I found an agriturismo pension just outside the walls of the medieval city of Santo Stefano di Sessanio.

We stayed in a cute, comfortable apartment with a kitchen equipped with a miniature orange refrigerator and 4 burner stove, dining table, couch and TV, bedroom, large bathroom and a loft that could sleep 3. The owner brings us fresh eggs for breakfast from the neighbor's chickens. Our 2 balconies overlooked the town and mountains. Our ‘backyard’ was terraced with stones and surrounded with almond trees. When we werent exploring the area castles and medieval villages, we sat outside with wine and cheese and watched the world go by. And we'd talk with our apartment neighbors – a family from Rome. Pinny is very talkative and informative since he comes to this apartment annually. In typical Italian manner, he relaxes in the sun, napping or reading until his mother wants to go and pick herbs. At that point the family piles into the van to look for herbs on the side of the road.

Enjoying our back yard with Santo Stefano in the background

our kitchen with orange refrigerator

eggs for breakfast!

The Turk was amused with the warnings on the beer bottles - you will get pregnant or run into a car if you drink beer in Italy

The Turk and I wandered the old village and found, like Castel di Monte, the cobbled streets are windy and steep. There is a benefactor who is renovating the village after the 2009 earthquake that devastated the area. He offered to do this only if the government approved his plans and agreed to prevent modern buildings from being constructed nearby.

Apparently this agreement worked and he is renovating according to historical record. He is also developing hotel rooms from the renovated stone homes that use hand made blankets and furniture. His restaurant is known for its excellent local cuisine, and is expensive. Other restaurants and bars are moving in and attracting a growing volume of tourists. But the volume is still small compared with typical tourist attractions which keeps the ambiance charming.

Much to the Turk’s happiness, we found that the local specialty is lentils. He had lentil soup every night and it wass quite wonderful. SS di Sessanio lentils are small dark balls and have a meaty flavor. They retain their shape when cooked, unlike red lentils we use at home.

We are continuing our wine experiences by trying different wines each day. There is a wine shop in the village and the Montepulciano d’Abruzza wines have not disappointed.