Thursday, October 5, 2017

And Now Its Time For Wine - Stellenbosch

After the big city of Cape Town, we were looking forward to the 'winelands', the name given to the region east of Cape Town known for developing pinotage red wine. We had two days of wine tours that included small, high quality wineries that were located around Stellenbosch, where we were staying.                                                                                                                                                   
tasting by the fire on a cool day
Anura Winery, frog mascot

Anura Winery is located in the foothills of Simonsberg Mountains and is named for the Latin term for amphibian order of frogs and toads, started planting grapes in 1996. While they started with Mourvedre, Petit Verdot, Granache, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Malbec, they expanded to whites and more reds including Pinotage. 
even the weather vane is froglike

mobile bottler makes the rounds to smaller wineries

cheese from their dairy farm makes great tasting
Anura even had a brewery

This area was settled by the Dutch in 1650's and the Cape Dutch architecture is visible in wine towns like Stellenbosch, Paarl, and Franschhoek. While the Dutch did not make good wine, the climate supported the evolution of wine making with influence from other European countries. Most of the vines today are based on more recent rootstocks that were imported from Europe and the US to combat the phylloxera outbreak.
Simonsberg Mountains














just like California wine country, much agriculture

Delheim Winery for lunch
Cape Dutch architecture
 We stopped at Delheim Winery for lunch. At our table, one of the chairs was occupied by the winery cat who prefers a chair by the window!
Waterford Winery 

chocolate wine tasting at Waterford Winery
all important chocolate shop!

Similar to California...with mountains

Waterford winery creates their own chocolate in addition to their wines.

We found out that 'old vine' grapes are called 'bush vines' in South Africa. 


beautiful countryside

more Cape Dutch buildings
Our boutique hotel, River Manor Hotel, was in Stellenbosch so we could easily walk around the quaint town. The hotel was lovely and we had a special fire built for us each night in the lounge where we enjoyed an evening drink with new found friends.  
the pool area at our hotel

Dutch Reform church, 1686,rebuilt, in Stellenbosch
The old church had 11 stunning modern stained glass windows created using a French method where thick colored glass is set with concrete. The Turk and I were given a detailed tour of these by a church deacon that helped us appreciate the dedication of the church members.   

Most church members were buried under the floors of the church until 1803.





new pulpit built 1863

thick glass, modern design

three different artists created windows





We toured the Stellenbosch University botanical gardens which were started in 1922 and found, again, quite a collection of bonsai. The vegetable garden retains the original paths and plant history.




protea

protea
 More beautiful buildings, interesting signs, and delicious food and wine were part of our days in Stellenbosch. A relaxing end to our African adventures.
Oom Samie se winkel-oldest store in Stellenbosch - a bit of everything!

Spek and Bone are best friends, and the name of a great restaurant!

The oldest vine, and oldest Turk
 Spek and Bone was a favorite of ours, located behind the oldest store in Stellenbosch, and sharing its space with the oldest grape vine in the area. The owner explaines, "The restaurant is named after our pig and our puppy, Spek and Bone, who are surprisingly best friends and inseparable”. The pets were named after the classic food combination of pork and beans.  We also enjoyed OppieDorp for dinner.  Ostrich and springbok steaks. Turk had lamb shoulder. All with Neil Ellis Cab 2014, delicious! This is one of the wineries we visited the day before.
Cape Dutch

artisan creating giant beaded giraffe

home in Stellenbosch

original small dams to control river through Stellenbosch

larger gabions to control high water





































Oldest home - the kitchen
There is a story behind these hand carved, very tall, giraffes. When I took the picture, I was chastised by a man from the store. Undaunted, I politely challenged him and he immediately backed down and wanted to talk. When he found out I was from the States, he proclaimed loudly, ' I like Donald Trump!'.   I was a bit surprised as this was the first time the entire trip I heard a comment supporting the Trump.  I asked him why.  He said, ' I am Zulu. In our tribe, we respect men who are confident. Donald Trump is confident.' 
I asked if he was respected when he made mistakes, and the answer, without a pause was YES.  I did not say what was in my mind - that this could explain the decline of the mighty Zulu tribe who blindly followed confident, and poor, leaders.!

Our 2 1/2 week visit to Africa came to an end. Our home survived Hurricane Irma prior to our departure. Our trip was revised to allow us to more time to get electricity running at our home. The logistics were seamless and remarkable in their complexity and success. The animals were beyond expectation. But most of all, the people we met were mostly warm and welcoming. They seemed truly happy to show us their country and answer our questions about their lives, their families and their politics.  Thank you Botswana, Zambia and South Africa!

Sunday, October 1, 2017

Wild Cape Town Peninsula

The peninsula south of Cape Town is known for its beautiful views (like Big Sur), wineries, beaches, Cape of Good Hope and the southern most tip of the continent.
The water is 50 degrees Fahrenheit, but people do still get in the water. The beaches are either expansive or rocky. Horse racing is big in Cape Town and it began on the beaches.  Long Beach is considered the most popular racing beach because of its length....long.

In the early days of Cape Town, Camps Bay was the only beach where women could swim. Today it is one of the most expensive areas of the city with prices similar to San Francisco.  With the obvious opulence of the city center and beach side communities, it is surprising to find out that 1.5 million residents live in shacks within the city limits. These areas are known for their gangs and crime.  The week we were there, 27 people were killed - either shot or burned to death.

This unrest is mirrored by the unrest in the government. The current president, Jacob Zuma is from the same party as Nelson Mandela, ANC.  But his presidency is rife with corruption and abuse.
Per BBC: "His credibility was most severely damaged in March 2016 when South Africa's highest court ruled that he violated the constitution by failing to repay the government for money used on upgrading his private residence, including building a cattle enclosure, amphitheatre, swimming pool, visitor centre and chicken run...He has now survived eight votes of no-confidence in parliament...The 75-year-old is a proud polygamist - following a Zulu tradition - and currently has four wives. He is also known for his infidelity and has fathered a child with another woman."  Hmmm, I dont understand why the chicken run is a problem! :')
KO and the Turk in front of the Twelve Apostles mountains at Camps Bay

Cape seals everywhere

dance girls in colorful outfits were at all tourist stops on the drive, dancing for donations

road cut into the mountainside

on road, see overhang built for protection

Long Beach - largest beach on the drive, known for horse racing

Ostrich farm, fog in the hills

We now understand why it was so treacherous to sail around the Cape of Good Hope - Fierce winds and tide! 

rocky shore and wild waves

wild ostrich

unique Gemsbok antelope

southern most tip of the continent

its always about the baboons!
don't mess with him
I had always thought that the Cape of Good Hope was the southernmost tip of Africa, but its NOT. A short drive further south (obviously) is Cape Point which holds that label. But this is not really accurate either. Its Cape Agulhas 107 miles to the south east. 

more vistas from the end of the continent

Turk enjoying the hike

to the lighthouse!


seeing rugged coastline and then, nothing
a lookout hanging off the edge of the rocks - to look for U-boats
We headed around the peninsula to Boulders Beach to see the African penguins.
They mate for life and return to the same beach each year. With expanding communities, their habitat is losing ground. Watching them waddle-walk is always amusing.


Penguin hang out
distinct markings for African penguin

baby penguins are fluffy and grey. Mom and 2 babies
From penguins we headed to the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens back in the city. The gardens, started in 1913,  sit at the base of Table Mountain, creating an amazing view.  South Africa’s Western Cape is more botanically diverse than the Amazon.  Of the 6 floral kingdoms identified on earth -  the Cape is the smallest and richest, with the highest known concentration of plant species.
Table Mountain in the background

 Proteas are part of the fynbos family which makes up much of the unique plant count in the western Cape.  Proteas are also the representative flower for South Africa. We saw them everywhere, from our hotels, to restaurants, to grocery stores - everywhere!    Cape Town seems fascinated with bonsi. We found them in so many locations: hotels, restaurants, grocery stores, wineries - everywhere!


tree canopy walkway