KO and the Turk: June 2012

Aerial view of St. Thomas


The pilot looked like he was 16 years old

Our trip home from BVI routed through Puerto Rico with a 5 ½ hr layover. We flew an 8 passenger plane where you have to tell your weight so they know where to sit you. Our bag were distributed to each wing, by weight. Once we arrived, we jumped into action and grabbed a cab at the airport to get to Old Town San Juan. Yes, Puerto Rico is part of the US. No, they don’t speak English. So it was a weird experience seeing American stores and advertising – but all in Spanish. Even the cab drivers didn’t speak English. More people speak English in Paris than here!

old town San Juan

the fort at San Juan

We wandered the old streets lined with colorful homes that had carved wooden dowels decorating the windows, but also providing security when the large windows were open. We saw the old fort surrounding the town, an image of which I’ve seen since I was a child. A great grandmother painted this and it still hangs at my parents house.

The Turk was getting itchy. It was playoff time for the European Cup. Italy was playing Germany…at this moment. We found a dive bar and watched the match, until it hit its 2^nd overtime. We had to get dinner!

My mofanto

Nearby we discovered Berlin – which I agree is an odd name for a restaurant that doesn’t serve German food. Luckily they had a TV and were more than happy to play the rest of the overtimes for all to watch (Italy won, but lost the final against Spain). We had the most delicious traditional meal called mofanto. This one had seafood and mashed plaintains. The secret was the blend of unique seasonings that must represent PR. The Turk had eggplant and chicken mixed in a type of casserole. Add a mojito to the meal and it was perfect! And then we were ready to head back to Florida, to tropical storm Debbie.

Pirate stuff!!! on Jost Van Dyke

Pirate flags at Corsairs

The Turk and I found ourselves sailing in the British Virgin Islands, in a 50 ft catamaran. How did THAT happen?! When you know someone who knows someone, and they know the Turk can cook and hoist sales, and also that we make good company (notice I wasnt known to do anything strenuous) you might get invited to go sailing in search of pirates!

our first day out

Our entre was through Karen and Mark who introduced us into the sailing circle. We all met in St Thomas, VI at the ferry dock 5 mins before the last ferry was leaving for Tortola BVI (where our catamaran was waiting). We were thrilled to finally see the other folks arrive since they were the ones who were captaining the boat. The Dallas weather cancelled their flights, but they made it in the nick of time and the 7 of us were off to Tortola!

waiting for our shipmates in St. Thomas

Getting fuel at Leverick Bay

Tortola is all about sailing and most of that seems to stem from boat rentals and all that it entails. There is a whole process that involves checking out the boat, getting checked out with the boat, people arriving with what ever you ordered: food, booze, fishing equipment. I'm pretty sure I could have ordered ANYTHING and it would have been delivered to our boat.

Orientation

We finally motored out, heading to Norman Island - supposedly where Robert Louis Stevenson experienced Pirates and wrote about them in Treasure Island. And what do I see as we moor in the bay? A Pirate Ship anchored nearby. Little did I know that this was the famous Willie T's ***. Apparently they are famous for the naked women jumping off the top of the pirate ship for free t-shirts. And no, I wont tell you how Karen and I each got a t-shirt from Willie T's.

Willy T's pirate ship. Jumped from 2nd level deck.Or so they say.

The typical sailing day started early since we had


After the jump

the Turk caught 5 fish

skylights in our cabins strategically placed over our beds. We would stumble up the stairs to the salon, one by one. Coffee was started and the day began. Soon we’d be pouring bloody mary’s or just juice. The Turk made eggs benedict one morning, while Julie recreated her masterpiece French toast with rum and orange juice. Then the big decisions started – where to sail. Was our destination a prime snorkeling spot? Or an interesting island town? And where were we heading for the evening, where we would moor in a harbor with a fine bar or two.

mermaid

Some outstanding spots include:

Drinking at the Rocks - of course!

Amazing formations

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Creature at the Rocks

the Rocks on Virgin Gorda. This is a natural park with a lovely short hike down from the hilltop through boulders and trees. Boulders (hence

‘the Rocks’) are from the volcanic activity that formed the islands which are relatively young in the history of the earth.

Snorkeling around these boulders in the water was great fun with lots of colorful fish. We saw one mana-ray swimming with his ‘buddy’ fish following ever close behind. Alongside the boulder beach was a hiking trail through and around more of these huge rocks and swimming holes.

at the Rocks

Monkey Point snorkeling

After the snorkeling and hiking, it was time to climb back up the hill’s trail for lunch at an openair restaurant overlooking the Rocks. This restaurant had great food and drink….AND a swimming pool where Karen and I took our drinks.

Some great memories at Foxie's Bar on Tortola. Seems that everyone ends up there at some point.


I guess this is Foxy's


crazy people

Foxie's at jost Van Dyke

Ali Baba's 2 hole chip and putt!

Ali Baba's - the Turk had to investigate

Diamond Key: We took the dinghy in to the dock at Foxie’s Taboo to hike over to the Bubbly Pool. This pool is located on the other side of the island and is formed from the ocean waves crashing over a wall of rocks, forming a pristine pool. Oddly, this pool had cute little fish that were yellow with black stripes that kept taking bites out of the Turk’s shins. To recover, we hiked back to Foxie’s Taboo bar to enjoy the view, the ocean breeze and cool drinks.

Bubbly Pool

the fish that nibbled the Turk's leg

hiking back from the Bubbly Pool

a beer on Jost VanDyke


wandering the beaches at Jost VanDyke

the infamous Cynthia with her BushWackers

Cynthia's lobsters

Jost VanDyke island, Little Harbor: Went ashore to Harris’s where Cynthia, the short and spirited Virgin Islands native welcomed us with her secret recipe brew for BushWackers. We looked around and found an underwater cage housing huge lobsters, her other specialty. Cynthia seemed to know everyone and had photos to support the claim. Seems people from everywhere come through this place.

Learning about the local drink

The Turk wakes up..sort of

This says it all

Sailing - The Turk was a natural sailor. He pulled the lines to get the sails up and down, he knotted the lines when they were done, he captained the boat to Cane Garden Bay on Tortola, across the island from RoadTown. And he caught 5 fish! I had a chance to sail as well – between diamond Key and Soper’s Hole. We caught the winds and sailed back and forth which meant that I needed to tack, change the direction of the sails to go in the opposite direction. Here’s what happens. I yell - TACK. And everyone who is lounging around and drinking has to jump up and take their post to pull in the sails or swing them around. Then we catch the wind again and race across the water while everyone gets back to lounging. Until I yell TACK. And it all happens again. Meanwhile, I get to just stand at the wheel and steer.

Ali BABA!! The Turk is the captain.

my turn at the wheel - TACK!

Food and drink: It was a relief to find that the fellow shipmates were equally interested in the quality and quantity of both. The Turk contributed to our food happiness with shrimp pasta, grilled grouper, swordfish and couscous. Julie and Chris were amazing with bloody mary’s and dark and stormy’s. yum! Dinner at the Last Resort on Beef Island (next to Tortola) was delicious. I had a seafood medley and Mark a steak. To get to the restaurant, you have to take your dinghy or call them from the phone hanging on a sign on Tortola, and they’ll come to get you.

notice the phone hanging on the left!

fun art near Beef Island, on Tortola

Dinner at Pusser’s at Sooper’s Hole was fun. It started with their potato chip tower, progressed to dinner where the Turk finally got his lobster, and ended with the coconut surprise - a chocolate shell filled with vanilla ice cream and covered in shredded coconut. Yum!