Sunday, September 17, 2023

Venturing Into Venice


 I had never been to Venice before and after 3 days realized I need to return. We just started to explore. Loved that transportation was only on the water. While there are many, and many types of boats, not all have motors. So stand up rowing, like with gondolas, is typical. We spent the last 2 nights in a renovated villa where the owner Norberto lives and rents 3 rooms. Lovely to have him host us and to enjoy evenings in his garden with him regaling his stories in a mix of German (he's from Bolsano IT) and English. 

Once at our hotel (Hotel Papadopoli), we exited the dock on the canal to board our water taxi tour of the city. WOW!! Everything is done on the water. Moving van - on a boat, beer supplier - on a boat, kids going to soccer practice - via boat, police and ambulance - on boats. There is no straight route to anywhere because Venice is basically a bunch of random islands that sometimes have meandering streets connected with bridges. Sometimes the connection is a boat - but only when the boat guy shows up!

our water taxi/chariott

aptly named

here we go!
Santa Maria della Salute


beautiful buildings-used to be villas, now hotels
the Doge from Grand Canal

St Marks from Canal























going to soccer

DHL delivers!

more beautiful buildings









gondola repair shop
fish soup for lunch

Cichetti  lunch
                                                              We visited the Jewish Ghetto - where the term 'ghetto' originated.

 
ready for Jewish NYr


why in English??

Rialto Bridge

waiting for business

Basilica in St. Marks





















night at St. Marks

music coordinated between venues

canals at night
fashion shoot St Marks

Library of St. Mark

young female police

Part of Doge Palace

mouth hole for snitches

Doge ornate ceilings

paintings everywhere

prisoner graffiti in jail

Bridge of Sighs to the jail

heavy duty iron bars

ready for flooding

high tide bubbles up manholes

from Basilica balcony overlooking St. Marks to Grand Canal

mosaic bible stories, gold

side chapel dome
stunning domes
marble from everywhere
looking to front altar


entering Basilica

bronze horses from Istanbul

awaiting gondolas next to St. Marks

da Vinci inventions

da Vinci machine gun
Glass on island of Murano!  
portrait made of glass threads fired together into rod

glass rods of color used for portraits
more modern glass

chicken of glass
































special huge, elevator with velvet sofa at: Palazzo Barovier & Toso. opened 1295

specialize in lighting

hand blown glass 4 stories

assortment of hand blown glass

several stories tall

blue room lighting
our villa with heads on wall!

Norberto (who renovated villa: Cinqueteste Luxury Home) + Mark in garden


room lighting, cat head

many Venetian glass lights

original terrazzo floor, personal collection glass, pottery

doin' some yoga on the canal...and random guy behind me started doing same!
We rented a car, drove north from Venice toward Cortina.  On the way, we arranged a wine tasting at a small winery in the Prosecco DOC region at Azienda Agricola Rechsteiner winery.  This winery was purchased several generations ago by an Austrian diplomat living in Venice. It has remained in the family, and now the young great grandson of this diplomat has moved down from Vienna to run the winery and grow the business with his young family.   
We arrived early for the tasting and he directed us to visit a nearby coffee shop until his events manager arrived to give us a tour. We of course got lost and ended up in a small town of Odenzo where we visited the Coop grocery to buy some fruit. We had not been successful in buying fruit as no checkout clerk would accept our selection to purchase and we couldnt figure out why.  
A shopper heard us discussing a fruit and said in English - hi! You are American, so am I - from Pensacola FL!  He had moved there 10 years earlier with his Italian wife to help with the family business.  We found out that there were 8 Americans living in town and they would regularly get together socially. He raved about how nice this town and the lifestyle were.   The town reminded us of a quiet Napa Valley with residents on bikes and walking, tree lined streets, surrounded by vineyards and farmland providing fresh fruits and vegetables. 
While we were talking, in walk 2 of the other Americans who immediately stopped to talk. No one seemed rushed to get their grocery shopping done. They encouraged us to move there!  We then realized we were now LATE for our tasting and had to find our way back to the winery.  But not until we successfully purchased our first fruit.  the secret: #1 put on plastic gloves (provided) #2 select item and place in plastic bag #3 find the sku code with identifying number #4 weigh item on electronic scale and enter the identifying number to get the price. Sticky label prints out and goes on the bag.
official plastic gloves

electronic scale with item#























Rechsteiner winery: we learned about the local ancient grape Raboso that doesnt get harvested until November, late in the season. This increases the intensity of the wine providing what we thought was a well rounded full flavor.   They also grow the Prosecco grape called Gelera.  This region is special for Prosecco wine because of the mineral deposits left via the Piavon River originating in the Dolomites that provide unique flavor for the sparkling wine.



local roads


kiwis grown on property

Raboso grape, tight clusters

our guide with her Dunedin cap























































After our tasting it was lunch time. Our host suggested we eat at their restaurant nearby. We didnt realize that everyone eats out on Sunday lunch and it lasts for 3 hours! The Austrian wine owner kindly provided us a table and extended the kitchen hours for us to have a farm to table meal. In fact, we met the 'buddies' of our lunch. It was one of the best meals we had on the trip. We ate next to the extended family of the winery and relaxed before driving to the Dolomites.
owners son plays with milk providers

sitting outside - meal was better than Turk's face!

Semifreddo - delish!






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