Wednesday, September 20, 2023

Hiking the Daunting Dolomites

 Our home base was Cortina - home to the 1956 Olympics and upcoming 2026 Olympics. This was very evident with the pervasive construction, renovations going on through the town. The drive up got hilly, then mountainy and as that happened, the type of cars we saw also changed - for the sportier! 

Cortina!

line of old Fiats on way to Dolomites

Alps appear

you can see the construction around our balcony

Stayed at Hotel Natalie in Cortina. Basement was a spa that we got to use exclusively one evening. Very nice! Appreciated after a long hike.
View from BATHROOM balcony

2 balcony room-odd ceiling

not very inviting store door



strapping young men in...lederhosen!
Had to leave at sunrise to Tre Cime, considered one of the most beautiful hikes in the world, because of anticipated crowds. Happily, crowds werent bad.
sun glowing the sky

heading in right direction

lake Misurina, largest in area. Rising sun creates rosy glow in mountains

hike begins as sun rises

starting around Tre Cime


a local

great mountaineer!








        






















another view of 3 Cimes

apfel strudel!!

local resident

Rifugeo in distance

rules at this rifugeo..in English

more hiking snacks!

rugged peaks

checking cave near rifugeo
 

hike perspective
glacial lake

























completed!!!
downtown Cortina

relaxing time with Rechsteiner wine

sunset

heated benches in town, not needed by us!

The next day's hike: Cinq Torres (5 Towers), another popular beautiful hike that begins either walking or by ski lift - we took the lift! WWI had many battles in this area and we found evidence with trenches, tunnels, carved out caves, and bunkers.
up!
 
Cinq Torres!



















great info

WWI displays outside the hike














reconstructed barracks

and the hike continues


























With the tall rock walls, we found rock climbers everywhere. It was fascinating to watch them climb and then rappel down the rock. We felt a bit ill equipped with our single walking sticks.

climbers practicing

see the climbers on center peak?

not the smoothest of trails. we got lost a few times, but you see overall where to go
panoramic near rifugeo Scoiattoli. Cinq Torres toward center


nearby rifugeo Averau

View between the rifugios
with view behind us

our view in front of us
Then I noticed a cable car going up to a peak and realized it was the Lagazuoi cable car to get to Passo Falzrego - another hike I wanted to do. Heck, we arent THAT tired. Lets go! So less than 10 min drive and we were ready to get into the cable car.
peak destination from parking lot

more remnants from WWI battles

not for the skittish

looking down

























































at top, looking at entrance to WWI caves/tunnels by Astro-Hungarians

an entrance

see bunker and steps























see Mark on ledge walkway?

we hiked the troop path

















We earned our Michelin dinner that night in Cortina - San Brite. We had probably 12 courses over 3 hours. Each dish was presented as art, and explanation, its own utensils and dishes. Ingredients are all locally grown. Owner chef Riccardo Gaspari prepares modern interpretations of traditional dishes. We got to meet him in his kitchen after being taken downstairs to the cheese cellar to taste our cheese dessert course!
San Brite


homey interior



cheese cellar

Chef

beef

duck liver

butter on a rock

peas appetizer
It was time to move west in the Dolomites, so we made our way to Santa Christina Gherdena, near Ortesei. The trip there was an adventure. Roads were constant hairpins and we were accompanied by vintage and modern sports cars, motorcycles and bicyclists. It seemed that everyone wanted to go down these roads. We noted there was no center line painted on any of them, wisely because no one drove on one side of the road.  We were amazed there were no accidents. I have to admit that driving a stick shift through here was a thrill and I cant imagine doing it in a porsche (we had a KIA)!
stopped at Giau Pass

short hike to rifugeo, great views

Turk found his thick hot chocolate

ya, the road!!!



so cool

diving thru small villages
 
found in Arabba (big bicycling hub)

WWI display
We passed through the active town of Arraba that is big for any kind of bicyclings (mountain or road) in the summer and skiing in winters. Hills were covered in network of ski lifts. Imagine you can ski from town to town with no problem.
ski lifts everywhere

road we just drove

paraglider

Sella Pass
route from Cortina (left/east) to S. Christina and Ortesei

bikes everywhere

tiring

some 'not young' bikers too

Ortesei - cute town

topo gigio - no idea why, he's from Milan

spetzle
One of my favorite meals!
rabbit, potatoes

veggies + cheese
More hiking to do while near Ortesei - Seceda Mountain!  cable car to top to hike around before the fog completely moves in. We had to take 2 cable cars to get there - in the Puez-Odle nature Park. 
cable car #1

farmland below us

from lift station at top










 
peaks peaking thru fog

tandem paragliders!

running to take off

fun to watch!












can see how far up due to fog - VERY FAR UP!


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