Wednesday, September 27, 2023

Brescia, Bergamo, Crema, Oh My How Beautiful

 Going west from Verona, skirting the south shores of Lake Garda, we headed to Brescia which is another Roman town with Alps to the north, Franciacorta wine region beside it. We had hoped to see the museum, but found out it was closed on Mondays..ya, the day we were there. So we walked around old town and saw a bit.

layers of ruins

just build around the old stuff






Next we got to Lake Iseo and its resort town of Iseo.  Iseo is also evolved from a Roman, then medieval walled town. The lake (actually all the lakes) is beautiful and relaxing. 


school hung paper jersey banners in school colors on main road

Beautiful Lake Iseo

no idea why the ice berg sculpture!!!










But I knew there was an interesting hike hiding in the cliff beside nearby Pilzone town (behind the cemetery).  It was the hike to the Giant Bench! The start of the hike took some detective work, and finally an ask to the bike rental guy who excitedly pointed out a path. 

It was supposed to be no big deal, but the rocky path and steepness caught our attention. But the view was worth it!

stopped for a snack in Iseo
old school - kids in stone, on sign

Panchina Gigante means GIANT BENCH!! found our path

very very rocky











a split in the trail

made it to the top!










 
BIG Bench!!!!!


















the View of Lake Iseo and largest island of the Lakes  

the story behind the benches

church tower near the bench










see the street, see the tower at top-the bench is there!


























Remember, its a Monday. so restaurants are also closed. After this hike we were HUNGRY. Our hotel was in the wine country, actually at a winery, that closes on Monday except for the hotel. Closed means there are NO employees after 6pm until the next day, NO restaurant. Turk and I jumped in the car in search of food.  We ended up at a restaurant run by a young chef who was very excited to use all of the fancy techniques he knew. The dinner had many courses, though we ordered only a main dish each and a vegetable to share. Many 'chef's tasting'.  Not all of the dishes worked, but it was 'interesting' experience. 
you can see the Turk is not impressed

very pretty

pasta with ...foam!?
























Franciacorta region Ca del Bosco vineyard-specializes in sparkling wines sine 1960s
bottling room

amazing sculpture encircles huge tank-looks like a splash

sculpture actually Chinese symbols

in the underground caves

checking bottles to get gas right










































more art!!

beautiful grounds
Next day - on to Bergamo where we stayed in the old town, within the city walls. Had a food tour in town. Center of town has 4 impressive churches from different eras. The most modern is the Bascilica St Maria Maggiore with plain Romanesque exterior, but ornate Baroque interior was impressive. Noteworthy-there is no formal entrance to this church. 


St Maria Maggiore in center


Altar

stunning ceiling

Basilica altar and ceiling

roof line of old church
nearby church

guard lion of church

clock tower





















































more detail
Colleoni chapel-he was most famous Italian mercenary
 Bartolomeo Colleoni built an incredibly ornate chapel that easily mesmerizes you with its details.  He built the chapel to himself, near the Basilica against the church's wishes. The walls are colorful marble and there are numerous statues, designed columns, windows.

rub for good luck























rose window details

food tour! polenta, cheese, bread, fatty pork

polenta pastry


heavy duty pizzas

pasta stuffed with cheese

Bergamo from Citte Alta (upper city/old town)

our balcony
 
view toward citte from balcony

view of city walls from balcony



dried hams waiting for buyer

shop keepers clean each evening

building built upon boulders

town laundry 

creative chimneys
After a night in Bergamo, we continued west to Crema, a town that began around 11th century by the Lombards (which is why this region is called Lombardy). This stylish town - people were often well dressed, seemed very active - everyone had a very decorated bicycle, and appreciative of excellent food - our hosts made sure we ate very well and very often. This town seemed to always have church bells ringing, even to recognizable music.  So many bells that the churches coordinate their timing. We visited friends Joe and Jonathon who live here part time and the first thing we did was hop on bikes to ride to the countryside to picnic and play in the springs!
Torazzo gate into Crema old town

well appointed bike















and more appointed bikes

close up of biker's friends





















Porta Ombriano, west gate

they were bringing pizzas out constantly

delicious picnic!!!

homemade brooms to clean grounds when you leave




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