Visiting a Different World

One of my favorite places on earth is Cappadoccia. It is a region in central Turkey with a fascinating geography and history. Three volcanoes in this area created a sandstone type ground that has weathered through the centuries to form odd, pinnacle shaped hills. And this same sandstone is easily carved out to form homes, barns, churches.

To get here, we had to take a 14 hour, overnight, bumpy bus ride. Seems the bus stopped every 2 hours, plus an added stop at 4am to accommodate those who were fasting for Ramadan. They had to eat before 4:30am when fasting began for the day.  It was amazing to me to see a bus station at various times in the middle of the night filled with people bustling around as if it were the middle of the day. Vendors were selling fruit and kabobs, bus windows were being washed, children were running around.  Just odd for the hour.


The Cappadoccia area has historically been home to various peoples who seem to be in hiding.  That is the only reason to explain the underground cities. These cities housed tens of thousands of people - all underground complete with shopping centers, barns for animals, and homes.  Fresh air and water are plentiful even at the deepest levels. Some are so deep that all levels of the largest cities have not been explored even today.

cave churches hidden in the rocks

Going above ground, the hills and pinnacles (fairy chimneys) were carved out to create churches, barns, stores and homes.  We are staying in a cave hotel that was formed this way many years ago.

The early christians built small, almost personal churches in these hills, mostly during Byzantine times.  The frescoes are amazing, as are the number of churches that exist. The area was home to monks and nuns who seem to have just done alot of praying.  The surrounding communities had to support them - which doesnt seem like a very beneficial situation.

low doorways resulted in bumpy forehead

With over a thousand churches, we had plenty to choose to explore.  We hiked around the community just outside Goreme, where we stayed. The frescoes are either the early ochre painted geometric designs (at that time the church did not allow images to be used), or the later ornate frescoes depicting stories from the new testament.

Goreme cave church

Mark and I found a great little place, Old Cappadoccia Restaurant, where our dinners were cooked in clay pots. Mine required me to actually break the pot in order to get to the food. Lamb, eggplant, peppers (of course) were all cooked together and were accompanied with brick oven fresh bread. I finally got to taste the cappadoccia wine which was surprisingly good!

the Sac Tava dinner - lamb, peppers on hot plate

church alter area - ochre painting

To make the visit to Cappadoccia complete, we stayed in a cave hotel.  This hotel was the home where Mustafa, the owner, was born and raised.  He turned it into a lovely 6 room cave hotel that included beautiful patios and a roof patio for breakfast and to hang out between hikes.
Breakfast at our cave hotel is pretty wonderful too. Typical Turkish breakfast - fruits, olives, cheeses, fresh breads, honey and jams.  All home made/home grown. Great food and views to start the day

Looking from our room to the rest of hotel

our cave room - updated from when owner was born