Sunday, September 15, 2019

Cape Breton - Ireland of North America


Leaves were just starting to turn
 Cape Breton is a very rural island of small communities dating back 250 years to the first European settlers who seemed to move in and stay. The southern part of the island is Celtic and signs are in English and Gaelic. This is the home of the Gaelic College, nightly ceilidhs (kay lees) of gaelic music and dance, of Catholic churches on the verge of closing as the younger generation is not staying, of handcrafts being done by the young 50 year olds. Tourism is the economy and the community is holding on to that thread.

The people we met were welcoming and warm. We had all been through the hurricane and the schools were to be closed for a week while power in this more remote area would be the last to come back.

The southwestern side of CBI is where mom's dad's family is from, and where grandpa Gus was born. The towns of Judique (where he was born), Creignish, Centennial (named by gr gr grandpa), Mabou (where gr gr gr grandparents were married). Seems we are tied to this community as stated by the museum curator!

There does not seem to be much wealth in this part of the island, and the handicrafts reflect the simple arts where necessary items are embellished. Weaving, rug hooking, knitting and baking reflect the community. These items all made at home and sold in shops mostly to tourists.


always views
Our sites were on hiking, despite the weather. This proved to be somewhat successful as we compromised our plans when we considered safety....something you do when you are old!






Got my lobster in Cheticamp!!

local distillery - we did tour. Whisky is too pricey for us!
seems a strong marketing pitch
 These are only a few of the signs that caught my eye. Love the simplicity of communication here.
There were many hand made signs outside of homes where people ran their business - hairdresser, quilt maker, wood carver, knitter, etc.

opportunist: maid, seamstress and rental

clearly describes what this is!
I am told that deer dont actually register














































Surveying Margaree-Lake Ainslie Canadian Heritage River...Whew!

Beautiful Margaree Valley - mostly Acadian, not Celtic!
From the Judique/Pt Hood area we took a number of drives - Distillery, Maragree Valley, Baddeck and the nearby Alexander Graham Bell Museum since he lived in Baddeck.  Museum had many of his inventions, most of which I'd never realized.

AGB's home - his descendants live there, so no tours.

Beautiful views from museum. I never know AGB devoted his life to helping the deaf. He met his deaf wife this way.

Found a wonderful brewery along the way
We discovered Big Spruce Brewery overlooking the coastal drive from Baddeck back to the west side of CBI. Fun afternoon with music and good beer. We packed our lunch and picnic'ed right there.

The hiking at Cape Breton National Park was gorgeous, even with rain and fog. I could only imagine sun and sky! We stayed in Cheticamp outside the park. Canada does a nice job with park amenities: lots of restrooms, even at the top of popular trails, signage and good maintenance....except for the restroom door that got stuck  on the Turk who was sure I was going to leave him in his stall forever. He almost ripped his fingernail off to get the lock unstuck. Sorry!
great view of the road...and some sky!

yes, windy and cold. Am wearing 3 or 4 layers

our sunset one night in Cheticamp

popular Skyline trail. With fog and rain, not much for views.

typical hurricane evidence. Elsewhere oak rootballs were often over 10' high

Skyline trail goes to the edge. Boardwalk preserves lichen and the cliffs
Cheticamp area and northern Cape Breton Island is mostly Acadian settled (after they chased the Mi'kmaq indians away). Acadians are the French, so the signage is in English and French in this part of the island.  There are French influenced crafts in this area. The best known is rug hooking. This area is the rug hooking capital of the world...but methinks there is no competition.  The Acadian museum was well thought out, interesting, and we saw beautiful hooked rug designs.

beautiful colors and design

I liked this look


Elisabeth LaFort was known for her portraits - in rug hooking

this is huge and took the better part of a year to hook

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