Zesty Zambia

Elephant herd on way home to Zambia after long day at work in Zimbabwe

Though we were enjoying Motswari Camp outside of Kruger in the northeast corner of South Africa, it was time to go to Livingston, Zambia. I was uncertain of the logistics, but confident that our tour company had worked something out.  When I saw the pot holes being filled in the  little-used grass runway the evening before our departure, I had a clue.
After our morning safari, the Turk and I grabbed our duffel bags and jumped in the Range Rover. The Turk was thinking we were going back the way we came, via vehicle to the small airport.  But, we headed over to the clearing and there we saw our single engine Cessna and captain waiting. The whole camp had kept this a secret from the Turk after I informed them that small planes cause Turkish nightmares. And the look on the Turk's face was an expected grimace.  But when you dont have time to think, its not so bad.
Johanne our pilot introduced himself to us; we said goodbye to Kevin our guide; and we were on our way!

the hand off to our flight

Captain Johanne

waving goodbye to our guide

You know its a small plane when your luggage is behind your head, and the pilot turns around and asks - are you ready?  This is a bush plane - a small plane that flies between safari camps and small airfields.
Because we flew low over the bush, we could see herds of animals all the way from South Africa to Zambia.
Once we arrived at Livingston airport, our ride was waiting to take us to our very nice hotel, David Livingston Lodge and Spa.  President W Bush stayed here when he visited Africa.


We were greeted with music and very welcoming staff.

fun music to greet us

the view out back to Zambezi River

crocodiles are everywhere, including the front door

Our first formal activity was the sunset cruise on the Zambezi River that flowed behind our hotel. When we looked from our room to the river, we couldn't help but notice a warning sign highlighting the fact we were surrounded by an electric fence... supposedly to keep the hippos, crocks and snakes away. Not sure how the snakes thing works.

We had the mandatory mosquito netting around our bed. Zambia is a malaria country. Each night, our netting would be arranged and the bed area sprayed for mosquitoes with products specifically made for this purpose.

bug spray for spraying the bed and room

Sign outside of our room

The Turk was excited about this boat because the cruise included an open bar and four courses of appetizers. I wanted to see crocodiles and hippos!

The most amazing animal behavior we saw on the cruise was the herd of elephants crossing the river. We found out that each morning they go from Zambia, across the river, to Zimbabwe.... to work?   And in the evening, they return...during rush hour of course!   Note that all boats must stop cruising after sunset each night.  I dont know if that is because of the busy animal traffic on the river in the dark, or from wanting to cut down on border crossings.

our sundowner cruise boat in the river beyond the infinity pool

enjoying the cruise

fisherman at dusk

hi ho, hi ho, its home from work we go....

Our cruise captain and tour guide

beautiful birds along the banks

one of our dishes - yum!

found a hippo

another red African sunset

Most people visit Livingston because it is next to the Zambezi River that flows into Victoria Falls situated between Zambia and Zimbabwe. The first European to see the falls was Dr. Livingstone in 1857 who named it after Queen Victoria. The falls is the largest in the world due to its length and can be quite impressive, during the rainy season. We were there during the dry season, so we saw an impressive gorge that is over 300 feet deep. What I found fascinating was the development and continual growth of the falls. The rock is volcanic basalt that holds areas of softer materials.  As water flows across the basalt, the softer stone erodes, eventually creating fissures that wear through and fall into the water. The Falls has been growing over the centuries in a zigzag manner as the water erodes the softer stone.

looking at the Zimbabwe part of the falls

 We had a wonderful guide, Jeff, who took us around and explained the history and uniqueness of the falls. He also warned us about the baboons. They are clever, strong and fast and they want food. If they identify food on you, it is best to give it up and run. Otherwise you will have a baboon on you.

bungi jumping and swinging are done from here

Our drive to the falls was highlighted by animals - baboons, elephants and other animals who were perfectly content walking in and out of traffic.

baboon ready to hassle the tourists

While on the main road, we noticed a few elephants getting close to the roadside. So we stopped the car. The few became many and a large herd of elephants walked across the road. Babies were in the center, surrounded by adults. The lead elephant would walk toward the back of the pack to encourage everyone to keep walking across the road while they had the 'right of way'. It was a truly remarkable site.

the start of a huge herd of elephants

We wanted to explore Livingston, so took a cab to city center to check things out. Everyone was shopping in the markets, buying their fruits and vegetables, and shoes.
 I was fascinated by the women who carried their food on their heads, especially the 'carrot women'!

a 'carrot woman'

one of the original buildings in town

tourist market with more than our duffel bags could hold

carts of fruit

We learned that Zambia's largest export is copper. Flatbed trucks were on the roadways with large plates of copper from the mines. The copper was always on its way out of the country.

copper plates from the mines

typical roadway of copper laden trucks

delicious seafood dinner - we ate the whole thing!

The highlight of Zambia for me was our visit to a tiny village. On our final morning, Jeff our driver, was taking us to the Zambezi River border crossing to get into Botswana. We had been asking questions to Jeff about how he grew up, how he was uniquely permitted to get a high school education (grade 5 is typical for villages), and how he lives today because of his education. At one point, he turned and asked if we would like to visit a village that is very similar to the one where he grew up. Yes!

Soon we were stopped on the side of the road, with a tiny village beside it. The houses were quite small, maybe 8 feet square, made of mud with straw roofs.  Outside were lots of small children playing and some women busy with chores. Jeff spoke to them in their dialect and was granted permission to introduce us to them.

village with church on left

Two women were just returning from getting water, a 6k walk each way. I was mesmerized by their strength and posture. Jeff explained that they could not walk to the nearby river for water because of the crocodiles.
The children were very curious and excited that we were there. Unfortunately we had no gifts for them, but promised to send photos for Jeff to distribute.
One of the women was cooking lunch on the fire - pumpkin leaves.
The women's fabrics were brightly patterned and beautiful. Their jewelry was made of tiny shells, almost like pearls. The children mostly wore a ragtag assortment of tshirts and shorts.

pumpkin leaves being grilled on the pan for lunch

long line of trucks waiting to cross the border

Our next stop would be less fun and welcoming.  We were headed to the Zambezi River, the border spot between Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana. There is no bridge, only a ferry and small john boats. This critical location is the point of import and export for the truckloads of copper, food, and other supplies.
We learned that trucks typically have a 5-7 day wait to get across the river. As a result, there is a whole transitory community at the river. Jeff told us the rate of HIV is astronomical at this location.

truck drivers hanging out. notice the burners to make food

There were makeshift kitchens set up along the roadside where truckers could purchase a warm meal. There were people selling anything you might need, typically carrying the items on their heads or in a side bag.

There were also money exchangers, men walking around with large wads of cash. I saw US dollars, Euros, different African currencies.

selling things to those in line

The soldiers all carried semiautomatic weapons. I wasn't sure if they were protecting anything or anyone. They were, however, watching everything.  While I was taking pictures from inside the van, the Turk warned me to stop. Jeff, our driver had left to get our passports through immigration so we could leave Zambia.

I noticed a particularly menacing soldier, complete with a knife scar down the left side of his face. I took his picture, and he noticed.
Not 20 seconds later he had opened the van door and was yelling at me.  'You took my picture! I can put you in jail right now! You took my picture!" 

any currency you want is here

My instinct was to play dumb, admit fault and get this over with as quickly as possible. I apologized and said I didnt know this would be a problem. He demanded that I delete the image in front of him. Quickly I found his image....well, the close up of his image... and deleted it in front of him.  Afterwards he said again, 'I can put you in jail'. and I again apologized.

He finally left and Jeff, our driver appeared. Jeff was more shaken than me.

This was the soldier who realized I took his photo

Jeff apologized for not helping. He said that the soldier would expect Jeff to have managed me better and then we both would have been in trouble.  I assured Jeff that he was not responsible and I had no expectations that he would save me.

And off we drove, through the traffic to the river.

The Ferry - one truck at a time

At the river, Jeff directed us to a small aluminum boat. He deposited our duffel bags, we jumped in, and off we went across the river to Botswana.

There is a major bridge being built by South Korean company Daewoo, China Major Bridge Corp, Japan's Shimizu and South African Stefanutti.

more currency 

The presence of Asia in Africa is not subtle. Especially China has a huge impact in these countries as they acquire mining rights everywhere. Locals are sure there is much corruption between their governments and China. There is definitely unrest between the Chinese workers and the African locals. While China has built roads for the local communities, they are really built to support China's needs. The locals claim that anything built by China lasts only a year.

The bridge, Kazungula Bridge, will free up trade between these four countries. The surrounding area is now being developed as a town and community to support the border activities. To open in 2019, the impact will be huge.

our boat to cross the Zambezi River

Goodbye Jeff