Cuba - Interesting Times

 I joined a delegation of government and business people, mostly from the Tampa area, on a fact finding mission to Cuba to find out first-hand what life and commerce are like today, and what opportunities may be around the corner with potential changes between the countries.  The group of travelers were successful and mostly had open minds about what they would find. And they were fun to party with!
To make sure we all have our facts straight:
The population of Cuba is 11 million, with about 2.5 million living in Havana. The island of Cuba is narrow and 740 miles long.  Havana is 500 years old. Christopher Columbus's remains were moved to Cuba from Dominican Republic in 1795, but then moved to Spain when Cuba became independent from Spain 100 hears later.  
In 1762, during the Seven Years' War, England seized Havana from Spain and held it for 11 months. If they had not exchanged Cuba for Florida, we would be speaking Spanish in Florida, English in Cuba!
 

Cuba's revolution really started in 1952. Batista, president from 1940-1944 was running again in the 1952 election. When it became obvious that he would lose, he seized power of the government and cancelled elections. Fidel Castro was successfully running for a seat in Congress in 1952 and was not happy.  

On the morning of July 26, 1953, Castro led the rebels along with his brother Raul to capture weapons from the federal forces. This didnt go well and most of the rebels were killed.  This became known as the 26th July Movement.   Fidel and Raul were sent to prison.  They were released in May 1955 to Mexico by the Batista government which was under international pressure. 

In November 1956, Fidel, Raul, Camilo Cienfuegos, and Argentinian doctor Che Guevara and others launch guerrillas attacks against Batista's army for 2 years. Finally, Batista realized he was losing the war. He looted what he could and left Cuba. Fidel and his men marching into Havana amidst cheering citizens on January 9, 1959.  No one know that Fidel's plans included communism. He was considered a hero for overthrowing a vicious dictator.

Basic airport terminal - Havana

Few planes seen, lots of workers standing by

Just a one hour flight from Tampa and a world of difference. Immediately we saw American cars from the 50's, Russian cars, and modern KIA's which seem to be the most available current car in Cuba, if you can afford it.

Well maintained highway from the airport

Cuban traffic on the Prado

Few homes are recently painted. Cubans love their Cuba.

Creative transportation - no idea what this is called

Cuban pedicabs are plentiful

Typical old American car

Old Havana with its surrounding forts has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Coming into Havana, I was immediately struck by the architecture and vehicles - as if time had frozen in 1959. Havana's heyday was from the 30's to the 50's and the buildings and cars represent it.

art deco

Old Havana is where you find the original structures from forts to churches, cobblestone streets and parks.

you can see the modern building peeking out in the background

Cathedral build in 1700's. Located in the most historic section of Havana city, Plaza de la Catedral

Restored home in Plaza Vieja, built in 1700's.

 The socialist government funds all citizens to go to school through the highest levels.

Elementary school uniforms - a field trip to the gardens

 In addition to traditional education, the government funds schools for the arts. As a result I saw art and heard live music throughout the day. We were entertained by wonderful dancers who represented both Cuban dance and modern dance.

lunch entertainment at El Aljibe restaurant

old Havana

band in old Havana

Water ballet Cuban style at the Hotel National de Cuba

some strength moves

1950's style dancing at Havana Social Club

Drums for everyone

 Rum and cigars were prevalent, but not in an overly tourist way. They are just part of the culture and we were happy to participate.

Mojitos in the yard of the Hotel National

Excellent 15 year rum - $140 a bottle

Greeted at the Plaza de la Catedral

tobacco guy in brass

Cohibas, Monte Cristos, H Upmann

These are sold after aging several months in the humidor in the back

I didnt have a chance to spend any time in museums, though there are many.  While the sign says Chocolate Museum, it was really a chocolate shop that carried cuban grown and produced chocolates. Also ran into a gun museum - Museo de Armas.  The story we were told is that during the revolution - not sure which one - the students broke into this gun store to steal guns for the revolution. I did get to the main fort: Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro (Morro Castle). The original fort was built in the 1500's, with the current structure constructed by Spain to keep the British out in 1763 after losing to them the year before.

the store was so crowded, you had to fight your way in.

I contributed to the chocolate business - but only dark chocolate. Those with rum were my favorites

guns along the walls in beautiful cabinets. Machetes and knives in the glass counters.

From the Morro looking toward Havana

Old town Havana across the river

tourist!

I enjoy exploring cemeteries and Havana has a beautiful one.

Founded in 1871, there are 2.5 million people buried in the Cementerio Cristobál Colon (Christopher Columbus cemetery). It is the largest in Havana. The Christopher Columbus Cemetery holds 40 funerals per day and is the resting place of three former presidents of Cuba.  When Cuba became an independent country following the Spanish-American war, Christopher Columbus's remains were transported back to Spain, leaving his namesake of the cemetery behind in Havana.

a favorite fence post - why would you use bats?

 

replica of the great pyramid 1/1000 scale

honoring Cuban firefightes

When this elderly woman died, her do Rinti sat at her feet and died too

tomb for the rebels of the revolution

 

Amelia's grave with offerings

hundreds of thankyou's to Amelia

The legend of the Milagrosa (the Miraculous Lady) gave me goosebumps.  She was a woman that died giving birth, along with her baby. According to tradition, the baby was laid at the mother's feet. Thirteen years later,  when her grave was opened, the baby was found in her arms. Pregnant women leave offerings by her grave to pray for healthy births.
 
Food was average in most cases, and really delicious sometimes.  Until recently, the government ran the restaurants which did not create interesting or remarkable cuisine. We never saw vegetables and only once saw a basic salad with a tomato slice as the highlight.
Paladares, privately owned restaurants, are now allowed and the business of cuisine is on the upswing. Our first dinner was at Hotel National de Cuba - state owned. We were poolside and entertained by the Cuban water ballet group. The setting was magical - private patio and show, perfect evening with clear moonlit sky backed by a 1930's Spanish style hotel.  The food was not magical, but we were introduced to our first of many smoked salmon appetizers which were always good.  The only explanation I can come up with is Cuba's connection to Russia.  Our best dinner was at La Guarida, located up several marble stepped flights from a dilapidated first floor. Cuban tacos, octopus carpaccio, baked grouper and deconstructed lemon pie.

Cafe del Oriente for lunch

making sugar cane drink at a restaurant

Cuban tacos at La Guarida

carpaccio

climbing the marble steps to La Guarida. Note the quote from Fidel on the wall

beside the staircase Fidel oversees

I expected more propaganda posters than I saw. The revolution related art that I saw seemed mostly aimed at selling trinkets to tourists.  There is a big billboard as you leave the airport that cheers the current government and there are occasional pictures of Castro. But overall the presence of Castro is not highlighted.

poster at street market - 26th July Movement

painting at t-shirt shop

 

poster in shop

the Cuban 5 who were recently released as part of the US/Cuba negotiations are considered heroes. Note the English description of the incident and trial.

I think grocery stores are very informative about a community so I always try to visit them when I travel. We hear that because of the US embargo, Cuba must import food from distant countries which is expensive and limits what can be transported. I found a sparsely stocked grocery store in a high end shopping center - though no store was well stocked and the displays were abysmal. Items seemed to mostly come from Spain and there was an abundance of olives and peach juice. I saw no fresh fruits and vegetables, dairy products (except canned milk) or fresh meat. Note that fruit seems to be abundant in Cuba since it grows so freely and may not be something grocery stores typically stock. Also, fresh items may be sold mostly in daily street markets. I don't know because I didn't see any.
While I was taking pictures - discreetly I might add - the supervisor came to me and sternly asked that I stop. Which of course I did! The picture I missed was the large stack of boxes containing Chinese seaweed sticks... from China.  Not sure that these are a delicacy in Cuba.

Mostly Spanish wines, but few choices

Cuba consumes more rice per capita than China and must import much of it.

Boxed fruit juices seemed abundant, but few choices

Olives olives everywhere. The olive boat must have arrived.

Meat counter. Though there was a household sized deep freezer with a few items that people would pull out, look, and return. No idea what kind of meat the large-boned items were.

some kind of liquor from Jordan which surprised me since Jordan is a Muslim country

Then there are the random street scenes which are always my favorites.  I've compiled other blogs specifically on art, old cars, architecture, and photos of the group.

Very happy school girl dancing at the shop

Tree growing out of 6th story

bird vendor in a park

main street through Havana

sewer drainage work in oldtown. Note the worker is working with a soup spoon and none of the workers wore protective hats or gloves....in a sewer.  Nor did they shore up the pit they dug.

There must be Irish in Cuba!

Rooftop bar overlooking the renovated concert hall

sunset from the roof

Looking down the Prado toward the fort and ocean

Looking the other direction on the Prado. See the old cars

Greeted again in Havana old town

dominoes - popular in Cuba

my hotel - Melia Cohiba. 49% Spanish owned, 51% Cuban government owned

our pool and cabanas. Built 20 years ago for European tourists. Electric current in Cuba is same as US. Newer hotels are built with European current - 220.

View from room

View from room to the Malecon where a storm is kicking up waves over the sea wall.