KO and the Turk: I Love Volcanos

The central spine of Costa Rica is a mountain range made up of a string of volcanos. The most recently active one is Arenal, about 3 1/2 hours drive north of Atenas. I am fascinated by demonstrations of Mother Nature's power, and the reminder of our insignificance in comparison. So the Turk and I hopped in out travelmobile and headed north to explore the Arenal area including the volcano, cloud/rain forest, hot springs.


Arenal has 2 cones -you can see old one on right, new on left

Arenal was dormant since approximately 1500 AD, until 1968 when it erupted, killing 87 people. Through the years ending in 2010, there has been visible volcanic activity, with several more deaths as a result. Today, even with the volcano considered dormant again, people are not allowed on the mountain.

Heliconia

The Turk and I stayed at Arenal Observatory Lodge, a former dairy and macadamia nut farm that converted to housing for the scientific community who moved to the area to study the volcano since it is only 1.7 miles from the volcano.

view from hot tub

our room overlooking Lake Arenal

A surprise on our bed

Note that the prevailing winds and location of the modern day eruptions determined this area to be safe while the volcano was active. Today, you can see some of the monitoring equipment still set up in the observatory tower. The Turk and I passed a heavy duty vehicle near the lodge that was marked as being a Swiss research vehicle. With the 8.1 earthquake in Chili and 6 ft tsunami the day we returned, its clear that lots is still going on under the topsoil.

We were told that you can see the volcano peak only 25 days a year, and it was visible for us all three days. We could even see the smoke - though likely it is steam from water hitting the lava within the mountain.

Smoke coming from the new cone

The grounds of the observatory are beautiful with planted tropical plants and trees - looking much like Hawaii with heliconas, gingers, orchids, palms and very low grass.

Bromeliad

Swinging bridge! no jumping allowed - but that didnt stop the Turk


River down the steep climb from hotel - first leg of the 'Old lava flow' trail

Cerro Chato in distance

We hiked them all,

More swinging bridges

View of Arenal from dairy farm on the hotel property

Breadfruit

Cowled Oriole

Hummingbird outside of our room

including the 2 very difficult ones: Old Lava Flow-which is actually just to the river since the rest of the trail is now closed, Cerro Chato - a hike up a neighboring, and older, dormant volcano. Both of these hikes required arms, legs, walking sticks and endurance. And my new knee -10 mos old - weathered it all without a hitch. We climbed Cerro Chato to the peak where we could see the water-filled cone.

Easy part of the trail to Cerro Chato volcano

Vertical part of Cerro Chato trail

Reward! Water filled volcanic cone

Stomachs were growling so we got in our travelmobile and headed to El Castillo, the nearby town on lake Arenal - largest lake in Costa Rica. It is man made and provides water and electricity to the Guantacesta region.

Lake Arenal from hotel

The bumpy dirt road ends past El Castillo and you can continue on only on foot, or by horse. But we were headed for John's Pizza! The Turk is very picky about his pizza and requires think crust, fresh ingredients. And we found it here. The sign for John's Pizza is about 6 x 10 inches on the side of the road indicating you should turn down an alley. We found a dilapidated structure, with a pizza oven, and knew we were in the right spot. John, formerly from Los Angeles CA, died last summer. But his wife continues the business and the pizza was perfect!

Happy Turk - beer and pizza

Signing the wall at John's Pizza

What better way to recover from a 4 1/2 hour hike than to immerse yourself in the hot springs! We headed for Eco Termales, a smaller springs that has 3 pools of progressively hotter water leading to the source. We went in the evening and the Turk was in heaven. He really hates to be in cold water - anything cooler than 85 degrees is cold to him. We floated around each of the pools, cooling off a bit in the waterfall pool - at least I did. It was too 'cold' for the Turk.


Eco Termales entrance - low key compared with the others

2nd pool looking toward 3rd pool

This is hottest pool, starting with hot tub at top. Hot water runs into lower pool which is a bit less hot, then a 3rd pool that is just...hot. Next to lowest pool is a small pool with waterfall and cool water.

Our room was half of a duplex with large porches facing Lake Arenal. We woke each morning to the sound of birds and cool breeze. In the morning, we hiked uphill to the restaurant deck overlooking the volcano to watch the morning birds, coatis and critters foraging for their breakfasts - until we could get in to get ours. A Tico breakfast! Beans and rice, eggs, fruit - pineapple, mango, watermelon, cantalope - and french fried bread fruit. This definitely held us over during our morning hikes looking for creatures.

Montezuma Oropendolas eating watermelon and papaya

Montezumas' homes - new ones are built each year. Females can reject what the male has built and the male has to build a new one.

flycatchers

Coati - like a raccoon

Each evening, we were witness to amazing sunsets over Lake Arenal to the west-obviously.

Alas, it was time to head back to Atenas. The Turk is getting used to the twisty, narrow roads which are considered main roads, and even complains less about the pot-holed dirt roads that we often have to drive for almost an hour to get somewhere - including to the Observatory Lodge.

Soon out of Arenal, we saw Coco Loco and had to visit. Its a gallery run by a German woman who is an artist, and who sells her own and other artists' work. What a find!

Turned wood bowl with resin/metal and different types of wood pieces

Masks that show animal faces, but also birds and flowers. Love these!

mirrors on wood with metal/resin highlights

We got to pass through the Angeles rain forest area where the road was less windy and the vistas were gorgeous looking across hills of cow pastures and farms. There were - as usual - many roadside sodas (very small diners) and food stands. We stopped at one to discover home made coconut cookies - my new fave - and a traditional milk, sugar sweet thingy. Not sure its my favorite.Grand Prix from Malaysia was on TV so we watched a bit.