G'Bye Istanbul

I love Istanbul - it is exotic, beautiful, exciting. Definately not restful - so we are headed to Selcuk, Mark's hometown that fits that need.  A long bus ride of 10 hours including a ferry ride to cross the Marmaris Sea makes for a long trip.  We both agree that next time, we fly!

i took these pics from the roof of our hotel, at sunset.  Above is the Blue Mosque, Below is Aya Sofya - once the largest Christian church.  in Byzantine times, this area was all Christian.  The Persians invaded and turned the area Muslim, converting the churches to mosques. thus began 200 years of crusades as the Christians attempted to reclaim the area.  Genghis Khan came in and was able to conquer the weakened muslims but was followed by the Seljuks who were the first Turks and began the Ottoman Empire.  This lasted until World War I when all was a mess. Siding with the Germans, who lost the war, the former Ottoman empire was divided amongst the victors. Atataurk, the general who lead the Turks at Gallipolli, took charge of the former ottoman army and claimed the area now known at Turkey.  Thus began the modern country of Turkey in 1923.  Attaturk removed religion from the government and created a democracy - the only muslim country to do so.  This is all in jeopardy as the country struggles with the constitution and growing religious movements.  August 30 is Turkey's Independence day.

Boating the Bospherus

Dinner last night was over in Beyoglu, the european side of istanbul and considered the modern city.  this was definately the case with European style buildings and even a cable car.  the embassies are here as are the international business Turkey offices.  Street muscians, including some dressed as American Indians, ice cream vendors, toy vendors all mingled with the pedestrians on the 'no car' road - Isticklal Caddesi. It is lined with cafes, bars, art galleries, book stores and restaurants

We tried a manti restaurant called Hala. Manti is the turkish version of ravioli, but as miniature balls.

Istanbul is unique in so many ways. Just one is that it is the only city that sits on 2 continents - Europe and Asia - split by the Bospherus which connects the Marmaris Sea and the Black Sea. We decided to explore the Bospherus today via Istanbul ferry boat and made it north, almost to the Black Sea.

 Europe side has alot fewer mosques than Asian site, the farther north you go-the less inhabited and more woodsy the terrain becomes, there are ALOT of boats on the Bospherus ranging from tankers to rubber rafts with engines and they are traveling all over the waterway, its nice to see the old ottoman houses along the shore being renovated - though it is so costly as the work is always extensive to these wooden multistory homes.                                                

We came ashore and made our way to Sariyer, after disembarking at Rumeli Kavagi to look for a Byzantine castle..which apparently is really across the water. In Sariyer I dragged the boys (mark and ali) to the Sadberk Hanim Museum which is housed in a renovated ottoman house. the house was stunning with beautiful wood floors and ceilings plastered with wreaths and other designs. The exhibits included coins and artifacts through the centuries, but also gold, silver and pottery items from ottoman times to early Turkey history. My fave tho was the exhibit of ottoman woman clothing. Gowns of intricate embroidery with lace and crocheted finishes, silks and velvets, jewelry, shoes and head coverings that included coins and tassels. It was interesting to see the same intricate crochet work as I see today done by Mark's mom and sisters - so nice to see it continue.

For dinner tonight, we went to cafeteria where you point to the platter for each type of food you want and they dish your choices onto your plate. You sit at long tables with other families. Everyone is eating, somewhat quickly because there are hoards of hungry turks waiting for your seat. At 8pm, those who are fasting for Ramadan will be arriving. The food was good standard homestyle Turkish food. But I know we'll have even better when we get to Mark's family in Selcuk.

Then off to the park in front of the mosque for beer, to watch the evening Ramadan. festivities. There were vendors selling roasted corn, roasted chestnuts, a candy that is made from dipping a stick into gooey candy which, when it cools, becomes like a long lollypop, gyro maker, vendors selling toys that light up in the night, cotton candy vendors, bottled water.

roasted corn vendor

Roasted chestnut vendor

Whirling Dervish in front of Mosque

watermelon vendor

Chocolate fountains in Beyoglu

 

 

 

Walking the Winding Streets

Had a late night last night. Ali (Mark's nephew who lives in Istanbul) came to visit and we went to a restaurant specializing in Ottoman cuisine. Food is similiar to what we know as Turkish, but includes fruits with the meat and some different flavors which are delicious.  On our way back, we stopped at the Hippodrome - now a park in front of the Blue Mosque. The night market was open, there was a popular concert of traditional Turkish music, and in yet another part of the park - a Whirling Dervish spinning and spinning until I got dizzy for him.  Even towards midnight, the park was busy with families enjoying the activities.

Jumped out of bed this morning...more like moved slowly out of bed as the travel aches had set in - likely from sleeping in odd positions on the flight. Anticipation of breakfast was what got us up.  Turkish breakfasts are wonderful.  Yogurts, different kinds of cheeses and meats, watermelon, peaches, melons, breads and jams, dried fruits, musli, and fresh orange juice they made when asked.   The tea selection is impressive. I counted 14 kinds including sage, hibiscus, lemon and some I couldnt figure out.

We hiked over to Eminonu, near Galata Bridge.  We were checking out the Bosphorus ferry for tomorrow, but also wanted to check out the famous Bosphorus. There are so many boats, it looked like a freeway. Including boats just turning across the water to the other side, crossing in front of 'lanes' of boats. yikes! 

 I had to try the balik ekmek - literally fish and bread.  They cook the fish on boats along the waterfront and stick the fish into a roll with alot of sweet onions. You can sit at small tables that are about 10" square and 12" high. This is ok because the 'stools' are equally miniature as well. It made me realize that ALOT of Americans wouldnt fit on these.  Mark was fascinated by the rows of fishermen trying to catch the very small fish zooming back and forth under the bridge.  The fishermen were having as much luck as he's been having in Florida.

Next up was the nearby Spice Market.  Mark and I were in foody heaven, surrounded by olives, figs, cheeses, rows and rows of different spices and teas.  The smells!  The colors! 

A 'few' spice choices

Dried eggplant, peppers

Sardines

Turkish delight in towers (nuts in a chewy gel)

We still needed to fill in some historical culture, so off we went to Topkapi Palace. This large compound housed up to 5000 people at the height of the Ottoman empire.  Sultan Mehmet built the original buildings in 1400's and was sure to include a large area to house and support his harem.  Topkapi is on a hill overlooking the Bosphorus for a great defense advantage.

Like Aya Sofya the day before, the palace is much more developed for tourists complete with security checks and higher quality displays for some of the artifacts.  14 years ago, we just wandered around and tried to figure out what we were seeing in the dark rooms.  Now the jewels and sultan caftans are displayed with proper lighting and descriptions.  Of course, it also costs alot more to view.   Views...the view from the palace terrace was amazing. The tile work was intricate and colorful. It was nice to see that restoration work is continuing as they work on whole sections of the palace that havent been repaired in hundreds of years.

Mark guards Topkapi

Room to celebrate the fall of Bagdad. Tile, pearl,wood inlays

Sultan Mehmet watches the Bosporus

Entrance to the inner sanctum...only sultan family after this spot.

Istanbul From the Rooftop

I confess that I've not been looking forward to this trip to Turkey merely from the stumbling block of having to get here.  Now that I've weathered the expected uncomfortable, no sleep, bad food flight, I'm SO EXCITED to be here. Am writing this from our hotel rooftop, overlooking both the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya (the largest Christian church until St Peter's in Rome was built), and the Bosphorus.  There is a pleasant breeze at sunset cooling us off...along with the Efes beer... from our first day hitting the streets of Istanbul.  So far today, compared with my visit 14 years ago,  I've discovered that I DO like Turkish Delight when it is not mass produced, there are many more uncovered/recovered Christian mosaics in the Aya Sofia (that was converted to a mosque after the Muslims conquered the Christians in the holy wars and mosaics were covered up with plaster...which probably preserved them these hundreds of years), the city is wired and you can get on internet anywhere, more English, span of women's fashions from European styles to conservative to fully covered in black.  No veils yet which has been nice to see.   We are here during Ramadan but, as promised by Mark, I am able to readily find food which is a great relief! 

Aya Sophya's Christian mosaics

Aya Sophya  - they charge to get in now!

Grand Bazaar - you can get lost here, and we did!

Blue Mosque

View of ships in Bosphorus, waiting to port.

glimpse of Blue Mosque from gate doorway

Happy Birthday Dad

Dad enthusiastically celebrated his 78th with great food and drink.....and loud family.  No Surprises there!!

John and Mark got the joke!

Well fed group