Surprising Seville

 Train to Seville for a few days. Orange trees, olives trees everywhere. Old town is lively-tourists, locals, families and so many well dressed babies and toddlers. Many many babies! Mosques converted to churches look like...mosques converted to churches! Walked around the twisty alleys of Jewish Quarter with hidden plazas, ornate grillwork, stunning fabrics and hand painted fans. Delicious tapas! Surprising architecture. 

hand painted fan

embroidered shawl

  

ornate ironwork on bridge

curved corner tile sign

Seville is beautiful city with a complex history of animosity and alliances between the Christians and the Moors/Muslims and Jews. We got to see this with the architecture, and the food. We explored the Plaza de Espana -looking for Star Wars characters, the Seville Cathedral, the Real Alcazar (palace in Arabic. Longest used palace in Europe-being used by Spains King as he followed us to each city!), and the Mushroom-largest wooden structure in the world. Who knew!

Plaza de Espana built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929

canal with 4 bridges, ornate tiles

such detailed work

The Cadiz alcove

The tiled alcoves around the semi-circular plaza each represent a different Spanish province. Each bench is flanked by decorated bookshelves where people place, and borrow, books relating to the province.

light poles are tile covered

end tower of plaza

Adorning the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de la Encarnacion is the largest wooden structure in the world - the Mushroom, or las Setas de Seville, opened in 2011.  It was built to revitalize a deteriorating neighborhood. It is a very active area now with events, music, restaurants. You can climb to the top and walk around a walkway overlooking the city, and the light show that happens each evening within the squares.

exploring the mushroom

 

sunset overlooking Seville from Mushroom

busking flamenco

Real Alcazar - Mudejar style palace, longest used in Europe

Moorish courtyard

10th cent Muslim palace, adopted by KingPedro 14th cent

mudejar architecture: Moorish with Christian influences

see Jewish influence as well

The Cathedral de Santa Maria was, as many Spanish cathedrals, built on the site of a mosque in 1400s. It is the largest in Spain, and largest Gothic cathedral in the world.  Christopher Columbus, or part of him, is entombed here.

Main altar. Only Royal weddings here.

former minaret, then bell tower

      

Columbus tomb - Spanish Jewish, not Italian Christian!

 

stuffed crock was gift to princess

Time to learn to cook PAELLA! Went to Triana Market. This part of town is where the gypsies lived - and the origins of the Flamenco. Also known for where the tile factories were located. Last meal in Seville was in a park behind the church near our hotel. Mostly locals,buskers added musical ambience. Lovely evening.

Triana Market

 

spinach garbanzo stew

finished paella!

smashing garlic

replica of one of Magellan's ships that left Seville to sail around the world

typical home tile in Triana

anchovies, tuna nicoise salad, croquettes

fried sardines

ceviche

 

turk shops for pig leg!

delicious bean stew

seafood with mousse

 

Seville Jewish quarter - door

Spain's marker for Jewish Quarter

Jewish quarter narrow street

Spain's marker for Jewish Quarter, shape of Iberian Peninsula, shows border of Portugal and the Hebrew letters for Sepheric Jew. We saw this throughout Spain.

Turk makes trouble

beautiful Moor influence

much needed foot reprieve

finish line-marathon!

decorative floor tile

 

old and new

house art

unfinished on right - ran out of funds

stunning altar

traditional to Seville. Inspired KKK in US.

Brotherhoods in Spain, particularly in Seville, where hoods and robes are worn during Holy Week representing the wearer as a penitent as they walk through the streets.  Hoods like these were worn during the inquisition by those condemned to death. Very disturbing to see statues and souvenirs in town representing this custom.

And, I found the Barber of Seville!!!