Thursday, October 31, 2024

Rioja Wine Time

 Leaving the storm damage near Valencia and to the south, we headed north and west toward the Rioja wine region. The picturesque drive took us through Zaragoza, the capital of Aragon region in Spain. We only stopped and walked around to see the the Plaza la Seo where the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar and other notable buildings are located.   St James built a small chapel on this site around 40AD after an apparition of Mary, prior to her Assumption, helping to establish Christianity in Spain. A place of worship has been located here since. Current cathedral was started in 1681. Though 3 bombs were dropped on the cathedral during the Spanish Civil War, 2 did not explode and are on display.

highway art

more highway art

stopped at mall to find phone plug

  





Zaragoza Cathedral
 
stunning altar







amazing ceiling layers/details
  
Le Sao de Zaragoza, co-Basilica


 







Its so interesting to see how the Muslim mosques were adapted to Christian churches, usually preserving the intricate geometric designs - Mudajar style, and converting the prayer tower to a bell tower.  








sharing a wall-Muslim/Christian

intricate tile work on side wall
 
tile and stonework

 
Zaragoza has spunk!
 
and a Costco!



We headed to Santa Domingo De La Calzada, located on the Camino de Santiago. 

Our hotel was a parador, converted from a 12th century hospital, then hotel for hikers on the Camino. This town was small and personable and so much fun on Halloween night!  

lobby


stairs to our room

more parador lobby

Santo Domingo de la Calzada was quite charming. They are known for the 'chicken' church.  A miracle occurred where a judge condemned a young man to die based on a tale made up by a shunned young woman. Judge said, if the boy is innocent, this chicken (roasted and on his dinner plate) will get up and walk. And it DID!!! So the church houses the lineage of chickens from the miracle chicken - IN THE CHURCH. I of course had to see this.  

modern mosaic of the miracle, with St Dominic,patron of city











the chicken coup, in the church (with glass to keep sounds low)




St Dominic always with chickens








Halloween in a small town in Spain!! The kids, often with their adults go to businesses for their rewards. Bakery handed out cookies, tavern had chips, etc. No concerns if things were sealed in wrappers. I think everyone in this 6000 person town was in the town square that night, including us!
coquettish trick or treater

 
memories of 2020!
 
me too!!

 
the whole family was 'religious'


my fave
Time for wine!! First to the town of Laguardia, a walled town surrounded by vineyards. Since it was fall, the vines were covered in red and yellow leaves. The winding narrow streets were fun to explore and people actually lived in the ancient part of Laguardia which made it more vibrant. 
view from the wall
 
dead trees to ART!

town street
  
half the grocery store
 

this! clock comes alive at noon

town center-What does Turk see?
 

view from Bai winery







































Then on to the winery for tour and wine-paired lunch at Bai winery 

more views from winery


eggplant

risotto

braised beef on polenta

spanish french toast dessert
   
more scenery in Rioja region

6000yr old Dolman

love me some Dolmans


 I discovered dolmens in Portugal and was happy to find more in Spain. Of course ancient people did not have country boundaries, so this makes sense.

Tuesday, October 29, 2024

Loving Valencia, Despite the Bad Weather

 

snowy mountains on way to Valencia

Long drive day to Valencia - 8 hours. Passed an area known for their cave homes-literally the front of a house that goes into the mountain. Seemed every time I looked out-there was a castle or tower just sitting there. We passed one of the largest castles in Spain looming over the highway. And lots of mountains with snow!

Sagunto Castle. Hannibel sacked the settlement in 219BC. Moors built first castle in 700s. 













Mercado de Colon, 1916
  Found dinner at mercado de colon, an example of Valencian Art Nouveau. Saw some Gaudi-esque tilework and curves - very cool and the building was full of different kinds of restaurants. We enjoyed sardines. Very Valencian. 
   
sardines & Aperol
lunch dessert on the road
 
Modern Valencian architecture. This location became staging area for flood victim rescues

The weather was intermittent heavy downpours and strong gusty winds. Almost like a tropical storm. Little did we know what was happening just 30 miles away. over 200 people drowned with flash floods.

Valencia Cathedral, 1238




























    
    The Cathedral is beautiful, and built upon a number of religious buildings: Visogoth (Christian) church site, Muslim mosque. Around 1260, the Bishop decided to tear down the cathedral-mosque to build what is there now.   The side chapel, now connected to the cathedral, houses what is thought to be the Holy Grail. Testing has shown that it is about the right age. 
chapel of the Holy Grail - rose window shows chalice


















detail of cathedral altar ceiling














     

Holy Grail in ornate holder

 
mischievous cherubs in chapel

Central Market of Valencia-largest fresh produce market in Europe

Beautiful dome
  
Tile painter

With the rains, we looked for anything INDOORS. We stumbled upon a fascinating museum. The House of Carriages (which is actually the building name since it housed carriages). It now houses giant statues and other procession floats used annually for the Corpus Christi procession. 















Giant statues carried by individuals in the procession. They see from screened opening in the skirts

GIANTS
   
Not only people!

  






















paella, just before the 'shelter in place' announcement











result of the floods. over 277 killed