Sunday, May 22, 2022

The Beaches of Algarve

 The famous Algarve coast was next on our trip. We are spoiled with wonderful beaches in Florida, so wondered if the hype was going to be accurate. We found beautiful beaches that reminded us of California in terrain and temperature. We got to stay at a fancy resort located atop a cliff near a famous grotto that we later visited by boat. The local beach towns were fun to visit and I could see why someone who wanted a beach vacation would want to come here.

view from behind our resort, near Lagos

local lighthouse near our resort

main stairway at resort, a bit much?










Our drive to Algarve area took us through farmland plains and corktree orchards. As we got closer to the southern coast, traffic picked up, as did the shopping centers, gas stations, radio stations playing top 20 songs. We already missed the quiet villages, but were curious about the draw of the Algarve. We arrived in Lagos where our resort, truly a resort - The Cascades - is located. We toured the complex (2 pools) and settled into our apartment before exploring. One of the advantages to this location is that it is on the cliffs overlooking the Grottos, a location we would realize is a destination. Itchy to move after the long drive, we hiked behind our resort, along the cliffs and down to the grottos and realized the local beauty.

view from our cliffs

heavy waves at the grottos
viewing to the west
yes, you can walk down to the water, and swim....when its not stormy

The Turk's birthday!!!!  Dinner at the resort the evening of our arrival had some surprises. 

tonights fresh fish list

introductions to my fish choice

fish is cooked, now being fileted!
dinner
Turk's surprise birthday dessert

Turk even gets a candle

exploring Lagos
musicians everywhere

side alley graffiti

bachelor party?

cute, popular family run restaurant

Cataplana, Portuguese fish stew in a pot














































































































chef is 'the dad' and knows everyone!
Lagos marina

Lagos promenade

lagos street art
With rainy, windy weather, we toured nearby Algarve towns, Portimao (had a mall and we needed luggage to carry home the 22# family figs from Turkey), Ferragudo - a cute fishing village that seemed way more popular than we were led to believe.
Bridge to Portimao

Portimao Storks...EVERYWHERE
Ferragundo windy streets looking at marina

tilework on local church

Farragundo private home/castle

afternoon cocktails - G&T, Aperol Spritz

Storks take over Staples sign











































































Finally the winds calmed and we got to go on a grotto and area boat tour after navigating around a marathon.
roads were closed so we did a lot of walking to boat

kissing rocks

heading under kissing rocks

surprise holes everywhere

seasoned sailors

more arches

glowing water




























































Ruins along the cliffs

hawk surveying for fish on the cliff





































More exploring along the southwest coast Portugal with open beaches, surfers, small fishing villages, national parks. Much quieter than the Algarve.
enjoying the views

Carrapateira surfers, looks like Half Moon Bay!

octopus and a view

fishermen huts seem typical for Portugal

Muslim fishing settlement 12th-13th cent

Muslim/Moorish presence throughout Portugal
Views along Carrapateria scenic drive/bike ride/hike
reminded us of California

despite dry crumbly soil, so many plants grow in the rocks

so much pottery - thankfully store was CLOSED

Paraiso Artesano-potter shop Vila do Bispo

Sagres marina

15th century castle entrance

attacked by Sir Francis Drake 1587

destroyed by tsunami from 1755 earthquake

Entrance door
Turk imitating Henry the Navigator

Henry left for explorations from Sagres, here

grounds are very rocky

major dropoff, but fisherman had no fear

deep water-filled hole within fort grounds

interior of labrynth on fort grounds
Portugues windmills - this one is now a residence























60% power from sustainable sources in Portugal, wind is big
























Thursday, May 19, 2022

Exploring Evora and Everything Nearby

The southeast area of Portugal is mostly plains and is more arid, and hot in the summer than the other areas we visited. Since it was still May, it was not too warm. But it was clear that heat plays a role in the housing and agriculture. Evora is in the Alentejo area and  vineyards are important here. Of the 8 wine subregions in Alentejo, 5 are around Evora. A UNESCO city since 1986, Evora's heyday was really when Portuguese kings lived there in the 1600's. Prior to that, the Moors occupied Evora for over 500 years.  But we found plenty of Roman buildings and even stone monuments older than Stonehenge, from megolithic period.
1st cent Roman temple in center of town
palace Moorish turrets

Moorish influence on Royal Palace, now a museum
  



public gardens, made to look older than it is
details from Bone Chapel in church of St Francis

bones of monks, nuns, orphans who lived here

turk enjoys espresso, Praca do Giraldo, who outsted Moors 1165
Cathedral - 1204, Romanesque and Gothic mix

noting Jewish influence on church

all statues were originally painted 

gold sanctuary

carver's image of employer, who he didnt like

ancient symbols now have different meaning



rare pregnant Mary statues

effeminate Jesus, with breasts

symbol of inquisition on wall of Inquisition Court at Évora









































Roman structure on Evora side street
tiled steps inside main door from street of home






cork stripped from tree


cork stripping tools

cork flattened and assessed for quality

cork tree, numbered to ID year harvested. Wait 7yrs for next

workers sorting the cork
cork products including furniture!






















Evoramonte Castle 1160
gravestones showing Knights Templar and Jewish participation

Esporao winery
amphoras, concrete tanks along with wood barrels
foot stomping vats for some grapes
table, light in wine cave-made of barrel wood
 



winery guests-woman car club

stunning! and young men to assist the drives

some tasting!!!
view from tasting room, restaurant

appetizer in our wine/food pairing lunch
beautiful veggies on rosemary
fish course
dessert! sorbet and strawberries

Our search for the Menhir was crazed and without guidance. Driving down farm roads in the middle of nowhere, I was 'sure' we were close. After grumbling by the Turk, we noticed a small sign on a farm gate that said, in Portuguese to please close the gate. Hmm, why would such a sign exist unless this was a gate meant to be open! And despite the difficulty in opening it, we drove in, guessed which direction when the road split, and ended up where we wanted to be!
struggling with the gate
this road doesnt look like it goes anywhere
found it!!!



the story of the Menhir - largest found!!

On our way out of town from Estremoz to Algarve, we passed through some towns, but mostly plains. We stopped in Beja to see the area and have lunch. What a cute town, of course with castle. Even though we'd been in Portugal for almost 3 weeks at this point, we were still in awe of the assortment and volume of fresh seafood available in even the smallest markets. 
Beja castle

we noticed bull fighting is done in Portugal- in Beja for sure

fresh eels

fresh snails

fresh something

wine cave at back of grocery, also has cereal, dogfood!