KO and the Turk

Saturday, May 14, 2022

Castles EVERYWHERE

The Turk and I raided Medieval castles and ended up staying in a monastery. We are now traveling on the eastern side of Portugal as we leave the northern region. This area was the line of defense against the Moors, the French, and those pesky Spaniards (described to us as the relatives you have to invite to a wedding, but hope they dont come). This was also the haven for Jews who fled Spain, and later, Lisbon and Porto as the Inquisition continued. All Portuguese Jews were 'baptised' by the King to save their lives and align with Spain. These New Christians, it was revealed inb1960s, had codes carved on doorways here in town of Trancoso that looked like Christian symbols, but included Jewish references.

Trancoso Castle from 10th century

Mark hikes up to castle

excavations at the castle

Turk eyeing fixer-upper from 1100s

years and layers of paint

Christian saints and Jewish menorah

village street, unique lamppost

doorframe symbols by Jews to designate them

original symbol: cross and Jewish symbol

more symbols

town outside castle walls

The rock town of Monsanto is unique with structures built between, under, around huge boulders. The hilltop is crowned with a Templar castle. Hiking around here was fun, ROCKY, and full of views.

stone walls and BOULDER walls

spring roses

winding village streets full of flowers

well appointed pigpen interior

and this

makes you want to open the green door!

one of early inhabitants-Lusitanas

Turk amongst the stones

kissing stones, Spain in the distance

Templar castle from 1100s

inside castle walls

12th century St Michael's chapel and stone coffins near castle

view of Monsanto from foot path. Church tower in center of town is in the distance

amazing views

One of my favorite castle of all because of how imposing it is- Marvao Castle built by Islamic knight in 800's.

wildflowers in bloom everywhere

we did go in search of the Menhir

cherry tart!

Marvao Castle was imposing

thick walls

many levels helped with defense

high on mountain, steep defensible sides

Friday, May 13, 2022

Paleolithic Rock Art

our archeologist guide describing the carvings

We wanted to visit this UNESCO site in the Côa Valley on the banks of the Côa River, a tributary of the river Douro. These carvings, starting from the Upper Palaeolithic to the final Magdalenian/ Epipalaeolithic (22.000 – 8.000 BCE) periods (and even to modern times) document continuous human occupation from the end of the Paleolithic Age. Hundreds of panels with over 5000 animal figures were carved over several millennia, representing the most remarkable open-air ensemble of Paleolithic art on the Iberian Peninsula.

We met at the ultra modern stone built museum (Portugal has such interesting modern architecture) to jump into our old range rover, needed to drive the bumpy dirt roads to our destination.

walkway to the museum

We came to an unfinished dam obstructing a river (the Coa) in the valley. The dam was within months of opening when public pressure, and a newly elected president, shut the project down to preserve the carvings. Over the centuries, locals knew the carvings where there, but didnt understand their significance. When archeologists discovered them, they tried to stop the construction of the dam.

Only when the local high school students got involved and became very organized and vocal with their demands did the media take notice. Upcoming elections proved beneficial to the cause when the lagging socialist candidate took up the cause. He surprisingly won, and the dam construction (a source of graft that resulted in the past president serving jail time) was stopped. Funding came from national and private resources and UNESCO recognition and funding resulted.

Dam in distance, deserted equipment and roads on hill. River higher than before dam.

our hilly, dry hike to the rocks

The dam has remained which has raised the river, covering many rock carvings. In the dry season, archeologists examine those carvings. One of the tours we could have taken is via boat to see more carvings along the river.

more 'modern' carvings from 1500s

we saw carvings made over older carvings - no one knows why

best to see at night with flashlights to highlight the carvings

some of the excavated tools

a full carving reproduced with light

stones throughout this region look like wood, used in wineries

Thursday, May 12, 2022

Douro River Valley Exploration .... Drinking

The drive to the Douro Valley was beautiful and the N222 road is considered one of the most beautiful drives in the world - we agree!

Our drive to Pinhao, where our winery hotel was located, took us through several towns including the beautiful medieval city of Guimaraes - considered the birthplace of Portugal because the first king of Portugal - Alfonso Henriques was born there 1109. Guimarares was a Roman village.

monastery founded by King Alfonso Henriques

roman era buildings

support for Ukraine on town balconies

Amarante riverbank

Then we stopped in the small town of Amarante where, at this bridge, the town held off the Napoleonic army. We picnicked on the riverbank.

The Douro River is the central thread through the wine valleys along the river. Some homes, but mostly wineries show up between small towns.

We hired a driver who took us on a wonderful day of tastings at Vallado and Douro Pacheca wineries, with a stop in Lamego for light lunch and to see the famous steps.