Tuesday, September 10, 2019

Peggy Shared Her Cove with Us

We were happy to find electricity and water at our next location, Peggy's Cove, a picturesque, rugged cove and coastline.  There is little soil here amongst the rocks, so no big trees to fall in a storm. And if there were, they'd fall in the seasonal nor'easters that hit most winters.
Our B+B is the only one in town and these sunsets/sunrise were taken from our deck.




morning!

some rock hiking - looking over to Peggys Cove and the kayakers
Fishing is still important in the area, but here, the boats spend time giving tours

calm waters looking out to the Atlantic
Turk ate so many lobsters, he became one!

Military buzz the cove























.
carving by local artist of Peggy Cove residents

humans walking the rocks to the lighthouse
we had pipes! outside the lighthouse


Near Peggy's Cove we found lots of rocky hikes and vistas. Many things were closed because of the hurricane, so we spent most of the time hiking.
Heckmanns Island




crystal clear waters 
We headed to nearby Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on our way to Halifax, our next stop. It is a small port town, home to Nova Scotia's sailboat the Bluenose (Nova Scotians are called blue noses), and unique 18th and 19th century colonial architecture.   


Turk surveys the docks

examples of colorful homes

purple and gold, with red!

unique attic window shape is unique to Lunenburg

lots of sail boats

Ironworks Distillery located in old blacksmith's shop
looking like Gr Gus's carvings!!

Sunday, September 8, 2019

Nova Scotia Napa and Hurricane Combo

Our trip from Maine to Nova Scotia started with a ferry from St. John's New Brunswick to Digby Nova Scotia. We were told it was the last ferry out, before the hurricane hit. Digby is a small fishing town, known for their scallops. As the fishermen readied their boats for the storm, we headed for scallop dinner before a long drive to Grand Pre where we would be staying. Along the way, we stopped for hurricane provisions - water, wine, beer!     I started to notice that the highway wasn't grey, it was pink!  Remembering the pink granite in Bar Harbor, I realized this must be coloring the concrete used for the highway. There would be normal grey/black road and then a patch of pink!
on way to Digby

Our ferry to Digby from St. John New Brunswick
fun art in Digby - scallop capital
Grand Pre is the heart of the Acadian settled community in Nova Scotia and was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012. It is a rural, farming community that has developed its wine industry the past decade or so. Rolling hills are surrounded by fingers of the Bay of Fundy. Large oak trees shade the streets, but after the hurricane, there are fewer of these.
farm on the Bay of Fundy near Grand Pre










Memorial Church in Grand Pre commemorating deportation of Acadians by British 1755-1762





Grand Pre and area are known for their wine - looking onto Minas Basin, off the Bay of Fundy





Saturday morning we knew our time was limited as Hurricane Dorian was to hit hurricane strength in the afternoon.  We headed to the Wolfville farmers market where organic and heirloom vegetables and fruits were for sale along with wines, ciders, breads and knitted or crocheted items - some of which were being made there as people walked by. As many men as women were knitting!

heirloom tomatoes at Wolfville farmers market

brewery in Wolfville church
Because of the storm, few businesses were open - and no brewery or winery was available! But we did find the Annapolis Apple Cider store was open so we had to try all their tastings. That is until 2pm when they, one of the last businesses to be open, closed for the storm. We took our farmers market goodies and made our way to the car, getting drenched despite rain gear. We were ready!
Turk decides he likes cider

lots of apple cider to taste in Wolfville

Hurricane Dorian making her way in - view from our AirBNB room
And then the hurricane hit. While it started raining and blowing in the morning, by 2pm everything closed. Electricity went off around 4:30, right after the Turk made our dinner. We sat on the floor looking out our big window at the Grand Pre view park with its 5 flags whipping in the winds. Our window seemed to bend in and out as I tried to hold it still with my spread out hand. Evening came and we could hear winds, rain, tree branches hitting things. The force of the winds made our bed feel like a small child was jumping on it....all night! The one thing that didnt seem like a hurricane was the temperature. Instead of hot, muggy air, we were able to sleep in 65 degree temperatures which makes a hurricane much more tolerable!
The next morning, with less fierce but still persistent rains and winds, our hosts brought us coffee, blueberry muffins and more blueberries for breakfast. A nice way to recover from the storm.
And the storm begins - notice the flags are flying the opposite direction from photo above
The Turk's hurricane dinner. Organic salad, bread, handmade pasta with mushrooms- ingredients from farmers market. And wine!

Storm chips are a Canadian thing - just chips in storm.
trees burned from storm salt water
guys cleaning up the road
























No power, no water - Homeowners brought us breakfast!

found open brewery - Schoolhouse Brewery in Windsor, NS

Thought this was a line for gas - nope: Tim Horton's coffee!!

Canadian army out in force to help. Weird to see armored vehicle at gas station - woman soldier gassed it up and left.
Luckett Vineyards - no electricity, but we walked around

Luckett known for their phone booth in middle of vineyard - free to call anywhere
We stayed 3 days and did not get power or water back. We spent our time walking trails, driving to the wineries to see their view - but not taste their wines since they did not open. The Turk helped clear roads one morning and we did find a brewery open in Windsor along with a Chinese restaurant.  Our hosts invited us to Sunday dinner - homemade clam chowder from clams they had picked while in Prince Edward Island the week before. They used the camp stove - the same stove they used to make our coffee each morning.   It seemed everyone had camp stoves, chain saws and there were many generators. It also seemed there was little drama about the storm.  Except if you lived in Halifax where the city was hit hard....and people dont have chain saws.

Friday, September 6, 2019

More Than Maniacs in Maine


Penobscot Bridge 


really great views from the entrance to the bridge

starts with a bib
From Boston to Bar Harbor Maine and the Maritimes of Canada!  We've never visited this part of the continent and were excited to see what makes it so special. We expected fresh and delicious seafood. We found this and more. The countryside is hills, mountains, rocky coastline, red sand cliffs and beaches, rivers - all things we don't see in Florida. 
The Turk decided he would eat lobster every day. He started with our first night in Bar Harbor ME and then took a break. Maybe he doesnt like the bib, or the work? Lobsters appeared on his plate throughout the rest of the trip, but in the form of lobster rolls!


gets sleeves out of the way

DIGS IN!
We stayed in Bar Harbor and hiked each day in Acadia National Park, the first national park east of the Mississipi.  The park is beautiful and developed from the vacation spot that was carved out by wealthy vacationers who visited the area in the summers to escape the heat.  Their 'cottages' are large victorian mansions mostly used at B&Bs today. 
Acadia National Park is located in Mt. Desert Island, an ancient caldera. Pink Granite, colored with feldspar is everywhere. The victorian vacationers in 1880-1890's used steps made from this granite to build paths to make it easier for them to regularly hike in their long dresses and proper clothes.
We found some of these paths and used one to climb, somewhat easily, up the Gorham Mountain Trail starting over at the botanical gardens and museum (closed).  The trail had switchbacks built up with granite rocks to ease the incline up the mountain. This would have been done by hand with rudimentary equipment - amazing.
We visited Bubble Rock, several coastal trails to sit and watch the seals and birds along with the Atlantic waves.
Arcadia NP hike to Bubble Rock
Turk leads the way

flowers for our 22nd anniversary

Bubble Rock, and a very cloudy day
hike to Sandy Beach takes us to this pond
Schooner Head hike and watching lobster fishermen pick their catch

Seal Harbor