Wednesday, May 1, 2019

This Place SUR Is Beautiful


Our drive from Paso Robles to Big Sur was full of surprises and scenery. Along the way we came across some controlled burns as California preps for the dry season which reminded us about the volume of fires and floods that this coast has experienced the past couple of years.  We stopped to visit with the elephant seals and could have stayed for most of the day, but we had other things to see.
huge elephant seals south of Big Sur



Just as we passed San Simeon, we noticed something odd with the cattle beside the highway. The odd animals were zebras! The cows ignored them as they galloped around. I videoed one while it kicked at a rival.

Highway 1 was closed for a year in 2017 due to landslides from heavy rains. The roads were open, but still under repair.
road work on Highway 1
 Spring flowers were in bloom and this bunch was on the side of the road.

picnic on our trek
We stopped at Lime Kiln State Park to hike and explore the lime kilns. After a half mile hike through redwoods, fording a couple of high rivers, we finally got to the four lime kilns. These were operating from 1887-1890 to heat the local limestone to create lime for cement to construct buildings in San Francisco and Monterey. Processed lime was loaded onto ships from a nearby cove. The operation ended when they ran out of limestone. We also hiked to Limekiln Falls that was full with winter rains.


a lime kiln!

Our cabin at Riverside Campground and Cabins was very comfortable with a kitchen, deck and gas grill. From our bed we could either look up at the stars through our roof window or at the redwoods through our bedside windows.  The Turk was quickly known through the campground once he started grilling. The manager gave us an extra riverside campground so that we could build a fire every night.
Limekiln Falls
Three of four kilns

















Evening fire prep on Big Sur River






























our cabin deck
Pt Lobos is considered the most beautiful hike in the area.  We agree! We started early to avoid the crowd. Even during the week in spring this hike gets busy.  The harbor seals had just had their pups. Since the pups stay with their moms for only 6 weeks, we timed it right to see them learn to take care of themselves.

mom seal teaching baby

amazing tree hugging cliff






















this year's storm damage















scary woods
Turk can't cook these whale ribs!
 The Pt. Lobos Whalers Cove housed a community of Portuguese whalers in the 1860's who hunted whales and rendered their blubber for oil. We saw remaining whale bones, rendering equipment and an original cottage where a redwood had grown into the wall.

bones from 3 different whales

Was fun to watch the birds prepare their nests. They were VERY picky about location.

painters capture the beauty of the Pt. Lobos cove

We visited Garrapata State Park along the coast to enjoy the wildflowers and vistas.  There is not an official entrance, so we stopped in several locations before reaching the ideal hike.  But these stops were productive because the Turk found his greens growing everywhere. He gathered so many mustard greens that we ate greens for 3 meals!



wow!

wildflowers, but no greens here

coming out of a tunnel of trees


once again, lost in flowers
Next day, we drove down to Pfeiffer Beach. Besides its obvious beauty, I noticed the beach has sections of purple-pink sand. I looked it up and found out that there are only a few beaches in the world with pink sand and this is one of them.  The color comes from garnet in the cliffs around the beach.  Note that Turk and I were wearing multiple layers for the 65 degree windy breezes. But at EVERY beach we visited in Big Sur, we walked past half naked people laying in the sun, and even partially in the water. I felt like a wimp!

pink sand on the beach - I read that this is not always visible. This is just a small sample of what we saw!
.
Turk was terrified I would leap into the waves. See how bundled up I am!
Cave where water crashed through
 .
Beachy Turk
you can see tinges of the pink sand in foreground
Bixby Bridge from the north

glowing green from setting sun in mountains around Big Sur
We chased another redwood hike in Andrew Molera State Park. Note that the best hike here is to the beach which required crossing a thigh deep river of icy cold water. While hikers were doing it, the Turk would have none of this! The alternative hike to the cliffs was closed due to the winter's floods that washed away the trail and safety features....like steps.  So we took the woodsy hike along the uncrossable (per Turk) river.  The river was fast and loud at times. The redwoods were majestic. We were dry.
ya, majestic redwood

fast, cold water

Turk found new home

After our woodsy hike, we went to the Hawthorns Gallery across the street from Nepenthe to tour their sculptures, fountains, paintings and handmade furniture. The views of the Pacific and beaches from upstairs were gorgeous. Would love to spend the night just to hang out on the rooftop deck.
While were were in the garden area, someone turned on all of the fountains, at once! It sounded like a tsunami was hitting as each sculpture fountain came alive.   Most of the artists shown at this gallery are from the Hawthorne family. Hence the name.

the meandering gardens show off interesting sculptures

not sure what this is, but fun to listen to

Sunday, April 28, 2019

Paso the Wine Over Here!

Our two week excursion to California started with a hike in Pinnacles National Park between San Jose and Paso Robles. After our flight from Florida, we had just enough time for a late afternoon hike - the Bear Gulch Creek hike was constructed as a WPA project and takes the hiker through caves and trails to arrive at a surprise reservoir. We were warm, but not warm enough to jump in the tannin colored water with a snake slithering here and there. What amazing rocks (pinnacles) and for our $20 entrance fee - we got an annual pass to all National Parks.
we had the required flashlights

colorful lichen 


worn out after hike - and we have to walk back !

much water along the way

pinnacles sticking out from caves

Pinnacles looks like the wild west!
Paso Robles, a farm and vineyard community that we liked to visit 15 years ago when it was still sleepy. The downside - only trucker motels and Denny's to support the tourist trade. Much has changed! The upside - the number of wineries has boomed, though the cost of tastings has grown from nothing and $5 to $10-$40! Nice hotels have been/are being built. There is a nice selection of coffee shops, food trucks, and restaurants.
Tobin James winery


Wineries we visited: Condran Nelle- a very small winery with great wines. It was recommended to us by the bartender at Tin City Cider where we stopped first. The Turk got a nice surprise when a couple at the winery offered to share their fresh chocolate croissant from the Backporch Bakery in Atescadero. Of course this is where we were the next morning!

croissants at Backporch Bakery
Treana is a beautiful larger winery we knew from a wine tasting at Publix. We enjoyed their whites, which is unusual since we rarely drink white. The tasting did not disappoint and we joined the club. At this winery, we again met interesting people and got to eat our self-made lunch of fresh bread from the Italian bakery Di Ramondos Deli, roast beef and horseradish jack cheese from Vons grocery.
butcher's humor at Von's

Our day of tastings ended at Tobin James where we are members.  That place was hopping and we had much wine with our server, Crystal.
Crystal at Tobin James

The next day, the Turk was on a quest for wood. We were heading to Big Sur in a couple of days and needed wood for our fire pit. Wood was for sale everywhere for $12 for 6 pieces. Since the countryside is covered in wood, and people are clearing deadwood out to prep for fire season, it was a no brainer that the Turk would hunt for wood.
hunter-gatherer Turk
Kukkula Winery is an organic, dry winery in the hills around Chimney Rock Road. It is owned by a Finnish investment banker and the building architecture is clean-lined and modern. Wines were good, of course!

Steinbeck winery is a small farm and winery owned by the family for 7 generations. They are known locally for the incident where, in 1956,  a B-26 plane crashed in the farmland and the pilot was rescued by the owner. We met his son, who's son and grandson are working the farm now.
Howie Steinbeck
From this rustic farming winery, we headed out to Sculpterra Winery. The grounds are full of gardens and sculptures by selected artists, friends of the owner. There was a concert in the back garden where we hung out for a while but when the fog moved in, we were outta there!
leopard sculpture at Sculpterra
Sculpturra winery

Turk tries out kaleidoscope in the garden
 

Paso Robles hillside..and a pile of branches at my feet.
yes, this is California!

Tin City Brewery and more sculptures