Wednesday, December 12, 2018

Finding Our Way in Hue

Our bus took us up Highway 1 - the main highway connecting North and South Vietnam.  Interestingly, about 15 years ago the highway was redirected in sections to make the road more safe through the mountains. The redirection used the Ho Chi Minh Trail as the foundation.

Sitting centrally between northern and southern Vietnam with access to the sea, Hue became the imperial city (capital) of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945 and was the last home of Vietnamese emperors- the Nguyn Dynasty. This city sourced Vietnamese music, art, literature, astronomy, medicine and over half of the 3000 dishes that make up Vietnamese cuisine. By 1949, the French 'influence' helped move the capital of a divided Vietnam in the south to Saigon.  Vietnam reunited in 1975.
Today, 40% of the family names in Vietnam are Nguyn as this name was adopted by the Lee families from China to distance themselves from their ancestry.
Hue is considered the wettest city in Vietnam, and we can attest to that as we were soaked most of our time there!

vendor walking along the Perfume River
" Located only eight miles south of DMZ, Hue was the site of some of the heaviest fighting of the 1968 Tet offensive. As one observer put it, the Citadel was a "camera-toting tourist's dream," but in February 1968 it became "a rifle-toting infantryman's nightmare." Hue was captured by the North Vietnamese on January 31, 1968 and held for 24 days before it was retaken by American and South Vietnamese troops. Over 10,000 people, mostly civilians, were killed, and temples and palaces were reduced to rubble. Today you can see holes and marks, produced by tank and artillery fire, in many buildings and walls. "(factsanddetails.com)    Note that 2 million Vietnamese soldiers and 1 million civilians died in the 20 years of war with France and the Americans (and allies). 
DMZ Bar, complete with AK47 Xmas tree with 'peace', 'love', 'joy' signs. Popular bar!

We got a cyclo tour through town one evening to arrive at a private home where a delicious and beautiful dinner was prepared for us. The trip - sitting at bike level during rush hour traffic - was energizing!
Turk and I prepare for our cyclo adventure. Notice Santa in background holding on to reindeer..in Vietnam
One of many cycles - bike and motor - heading thru town
Bridges seem bigger when you are at street level

Trucks seem much larger when you are looking up at them

important observation - traffic is not following any normal pattern! See my foot!


























beautiful tiles, furniture, ceramics

ancient glass paintings from the palace
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pineapple with candle holds skewered appetizers, surrounded by carrot carvings

rice dish is the shell of carved carrot turtle - complete with a tongue!

edible flowers are like marzipan made of rice




 Ngo Mon Gate with emperor's viewing platform above the gate opening - no women allowed
The Citadel was used for 150 years to house and protect the royal family of Vietnam. The buildings were lavish and the grounds were covered in manicured gardens. The battles around the Tet Offensive's Battle of Hue in 1968 largely ruined the Citadel destroying all but about a dozen of 160 buildings. The country is repairing some buildings, reconstructing some, and showing photos of others in order to attract tourist spending.

The 9 Holy Canons were constructed by the emperor using bronze wares collected from the population. Each canon weighs more than 10 tons and has never been fired for military purposes.
across the courtyard from Ngo Mon Gate is the Flag Tower - a BIG FLAG!!!
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Restored building

Queen Mother's home with audience hall next door
decorative gate 
























detail



9 Dynatic urns outside To Mieu Temple. From 1830s to represent each emperor. 1.8 - 2.9 tons each. Smallest is 6.5 ft tall.
very decorative urn and offerings at temple
can see bullet holes from 1968 battle

unrestored building

























Off to the market and to lunch; Pho on the street. Locals gave up their plastic stools so we could sit.  While walking around, a local woman who spoke a bit of English decided we needed to come to her shop. She heard me say Mark's name and started yelling out, 'Mak, Mak'.  We escaped and found a small shop that sold fake NorthFace jackets. Really good fakes, for $20. After we showed our jackets to the group, it became the quest - to find another store selling NorthFace.
chickens at market awaiting their fate

Rain...what rain?

business goes on as normal despite torrential rains



sitting under building overhang - YUM



boat on Perfume River that splits Hue
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6ft tall flower arrangement for store opening

More carrot carvings for dinner at Elegant (restaurant)

dragon carrot with a smile



Damp Da Nang


Yes, the climate is changing everywhere and this is true in Vietnam. We traveled through a late season monsoon that gave us an appreciation for Vietnamese rain ponchos and warm pho!  Flying north from Saigon, we landed at Da Nang airport - the same airport most US troops saw when they arrived in country to fight the war.  This area is considered the best area to live in Vietnam because of the beaches, temperate climate and beautiful countryside. Da Nang is the 4th largest city, giving you access to anything you need.
We were told that the US base, now the international airport, was ground zero for agent orange drum storage, loaded to planes for spraying the jungles between 1962 and 1971.  As a result, this area has been one of the most highly contaminated locations on earth with over 3 million people born with birth defects from the toxin.  Between 2012 and 2016 the Vietnamese and US governments worked to clean up the airport area, about $43 million at that point.
in front of largest bridge in Vietnam, AND largest dragon bridge anywhere. On weekends, it shoots fire and lights up!

mobile tourism office
China Beach - a mess with the flooding from monsoon
From Da Nang, you have access to wide beaches with swimmers and fishermen, the Marble Mountains and the associated galleries of marble statues, furniture and anything else you can create from marble, the UNESCO town of Hoi An known for their silk lanterns and artisans.
beach lined with highrises, and more coming





















fishing in the Ha River that empties into South China Sea at Da Nang
pretty creative. Boat is woven bamboo and covered in tar or varnish for waterproofing
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temple lions ready to go home with you at one of the marble factories

lots of workers, chisels, and DUST

artisan working on modern sculpture














this should give me plenty of good luck!!

Turk mimics Mao. Who is who?!

























Vietnamese bowling balls...with no finger holes!
typical propaganda (motivation?) billboard

fishing as a team-pulling in the nets that have been trapping fish all day


































artist varnishing duck eggs for lacquerware art
 We visited some studios/factories where artists worked on time consuming lacquerware, silk thread 'paintings', and the sewing of clothes. The sites we visited employed disabled people, some (many?) who suffered the impact of agent orange through one or two generations of exposure.



artist embroidering picture using silk threads





On the highway, we passed very tall and narrow homes. Property is taxed on the width of the home which leads to some very interesting and tall structures.  We also found large cell towers erupting from the roof of several homes.  Homeowners earn monthly fees for housing a cell tower from their home. As the areas become more populated, there isnt affordable land to build a tower, so the home owner and the national phone company both win...if you dont mind a cell tower going through your roof!
homes are TALL and narrow - taxed on width!

long load pulled by motor scooter - of course!
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colorful crops - the Turk was very excited to see these farms
fish farm
Anyone who has been around me for a while knows I have a keen interest in all things cemetery. Not in a gruesome way, but in a fascination of how people honor and remember their dead. Asian cultures embrace their dead and address death in a more open way than we do in the states.
I found the graves dotting the farmlands to be fascinating. The family buries their dead on their own farmland and as they get the funds, they build a tombstone for the one person, or for the whole family to join when its their time.
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gravesite in the middle of the farmland

farmland is becoming a suburb, crowding out the graves
 The even more interesting custom that is followed in North Vietnam is when the deceased is finally buried.  The dead person is first buried in a simple wooden coffin, simply covered in dirt with no marker for about 3 years.  After that time, or longer if the family does not have the money, the bones are dug up and cleaned by bone cleaning specialists who place the cleaned bones into small ceramic coffins.  The coffin is then buried in the final resting location, on the family's farmland.
We had an opportunity to watch this process take place while on our way to Halong Bay.

bodies waiting for when they are ready for bone cleaning and burying. flowers are artificial
ceramic coffin awaiting the bone cleaning ceremony

building the crypt for the ceramic coffin at a family's gravesite

burial people placing ceramic coffin into the gravesite

family member honoring her ancestors
fancy gravesite
government is requiring more grouping of graves in central locations these days