Sunday, December 9, 2018

Lanterns and More Rain in Hoi An

Hoi An is a well preserved trading port town at the mouth of the Thu Bon River, dating from the 15th to 19th century.  When the river started filling with silt, the boat traffic could no longer access the docks and boat trade moved to Da Nang. With trade leaving the town, no modern construction took place, leaving a well preserved town of timbered and tiled structures.  By 1985, Vietnam designated Hoi An as a national cultural heritage site and it became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999.
rooftops from our hotel

known for silk lanterns


The shops are built narrow and long so that the backs are open to the river for easy loading and unloading of goods from the boats.  The front of the buildings are the storefronts, again in use today.  Families lived in the space in the middle, with an open courtyard for air and light.
central courtyard, and rain

making dumplings in kitchen

traditional family altar in home

wooden walls, family portrait
boat owner bailing out water so they can take tourists on the river

evening boat tours down river
notice the river and the sidewalk are same level

staying dry was impossible, but made fun when wearing Vietnamese poncho
food prep at the market

if we only had a kitchen!!

a few pigs feet for flavor
 A great market in center of town. The prepared food smelled wonderful!  In town we found a well stocked (relatively) wine bar in an old house. It became our refuge during pouring rain as we waited for dinnertime.

Town was full of artisans and it was fun exploring the shops.  I could have purchased many unique things, but carrying them would have been a challenge.  Really, who needs a lifesized carved quartz bicycle!
chicken feet anyone?
friend Sara checks out An Bang Beach

pouring rain at An Bang Beach
beautiful craftwork in Hoi An - silk quilts

Loved the reading material - in Vietnamese!

bicycle carved of stone! In precious stone store
































It always amazed me that even though we walked by raw meats and fish, we never smelled it. Everything was very fresh.













Gambian of broken handmade and painted plates





























We took the hotel bus to the beach even though it was pouring rain - monsoon!  On a sunny day, this beach would be wonderful. There were small restaurants along the sand and places to get a cold beer.  But on this day, we were the only crazy people out!
silversmith in jewelry store
everything under water
streets are always festive with lanterns

store with French sign. note the old paint, shutters


Japanese Bridge - Japanese lived on one side, Vietnamese on other side of the river
 The Japanese Bridge has a pagoda on it and was built in 1700's.  When Hoi An was an active port, Japanese arrived and lived here.  They would hang colored lanterns in front of the homes for good luck.  The locals started doing the same because they wanted that same luck. Lanterns then became a part of the town's culture.

looking through wall of Japanese bridge

Buddhist altar in Japanese bridge




nice pool at our hotel - but we were wet enough already!
Watch the boats with colored lanterns going down the river. So pretty!!!

Saturday, December 8, 2018

Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City - Its Bustling and Growing

 Despite being December, its hot and humid in Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). I cant imagine how the summer would be. The city skyline is transforming into modern high rises that replace shorter older concrete buildings from the 1940's and earlier.

City next to Saigon River, Landmark 81 building in distance is tallest in Vietnam
I participated in a marketing event outside the Bitexco Building by Manulife, a Canadian insurance and investment company. They were promoting exercise and had several setups where participants could try out different activities. I decided to join a stationary bike competition. A young woman volunteered to compete with me where we would race for 10 seconds. I tried to sit on the bike, but it was way too small, even with the seat all the way up. My feet didnt fit into the pedals, so I stood and pedaled as best I could. Being twice the size of my competitor it was no contest. I won and was awarded with high 5's and a crowd cheer. But then I had to pose for photos and receive my prize - a tshirt. My 15 mins of fame in Saigon!
.
68 story Bitexco Financial Tower with non-functioning helicopter pad on 48th floor
where I competed in the bike race - for Manulife, Canadian company, at foot of Bitexco Tower

My prized tshirt!
customer service in Bitexco Tower cafe: If it's unclean, let it be seen!
Christmas lights at Rex Hotel - famous from Vietnam War

highway to the left, main street to the right where a city block is under construction

In addition to Buddhism, Catholicism introduced by the French makes Christmas a thing here. It is disorienting to be eating Vietnamese food in Saigon while listening to Felice Navidad on the radio.  Our hotel workers wore various Christmas headbands and a well decorated Christmas tree was in the hotel lobby while a Buddhist altar sat in the corner.  The central park was lined with buildings decorated with Christmas trees, presents and many lights. I even saw plastic reindeer and a snowman which was really odd! The only indication of a Christ child was in the Notre Dame Catholic church creche. 
our hotel elves

Opera House - French built in 1897

Hotel Continental opened in 1880. Hub of press, writers through the years.

Typical building, each apartment is a business, with new high rise behind
.
high end stores everywhere

street vendor - watch repair

sidewalk shoe shine while you eat dinner in restaurant
















sidewalk dining in glitzy downtown
The mix of modern and traditional was everywhere. Buildings, clothes, businesses, vehicles all bridged between old Vietnam and modern European.
carrying her business with her
street art
outside a department store. shoes are off.

Streets are full of motor bikes which may or may not follow traffic rules
Vietnamese flag flies high


CIA building where one of last US helicopters left Saigon





















Turk works out in downtown park

War Remnants Museum






























The central Ben Thanh market is the biggest market in HCMC. Built by the French around 1912 as a collection of street vendors who set up shop near the Saigon River.  This structure was renovated in 1985 and is a hub of vendors selling just about anything - clothing, fish, jewelry, car parts, souvenirs, street food and more.  I even found a vendor selling a blouse I bought back home...for far less than I paid!  While the market is one of the oldest buildings in Saigon, it is becoming surrounded with high rises. Across the street, the ground is cleared and the foundation started for the latest.

main entrance to Ben Thanh market

never ending assortment of spices, nuts, snacks, noodles

One of the few older people I saw. She let me know that she did not like me taking pictures. I found her fascinating, with many stories to tell I am sure.

decorated fabrics for custom made formal Vietnamese dresses

our lunch - pho soup and a salad with Saigon beer


































assortment of odd coffees - many are pooped beans by animals

this is coffee made from beans eaten, and pooped out, by squirrels


















normal street traffic