Apsaras and Renegade Trees

 After a sunrise morning in Angkor Wat, we had time to explore the less visited temples. These I found more fun to discover since they were smaller with fewer people, but with the same wandering hallways, apsaras, carved walls and overgrown structures.

Near Angkor Wat is the Bayon Temple that was built in the center of the walled  capital of Khmer.  This temple is known for its 200+ faces built within and among some 40 towers. It almost looks like these faces are watching you and will even quietly speak. This was the most fun of temples to visit.

Bayon Temple - start noticing how many faces you can see - all looking at YOU

good perspective of the temple's towers

One way to enter Bayon - elephant ride through the gate with menacing face

These figures are holding the naga serpent that guards the bridge to the temple

Outer wall bass reliefs mostly focused on battles between Khmers and their traditional enemies the Chams. Seems there is a dancing guy in the middle!

I liked this one depicting people falling into the sea and an alligator chomping down on an extra unlucky guy's leg

Reliefs also showed daily life. Here women are preparing food while people are serving the meal.

4 heads on this tower

a satisfied look despite being pieced together

this head has presence

heads facing one another

dancers who appear quite agile

another dancer within the filigree

proof the Hindu temple 'converted' to Buddhism

nose to nose....see it?

Neak Pean temple is located on a man made island surrounded by waters once considered to have healing properties. In the center of the island is the temple surrounded by nagas, serpants. This is another example of a temple that combines Buddhist and Hindu images.

water temple

Preah Khan is a significant temple built in the 12th century covering 138 acres. This temple, and others at Angkor were discovered by the French in late 1800's. Restoration started in 1991(after the end of the war) by the World Monument Fund who's goal is to create techniques for conserving historical ruins while helping to train Cambodian professionals and workers to continue the work.

one of 72 sandstone 15 ft tall Garudas, an eagle like divine being that guards the temple 

yes, this is a dried stick holding up the roof!

hallways from central hall reach in all 4 directions

ornate entryway

Hindu Rishis may have been recarved from Buddhas in 13th cent

stupa in main temple

a guard

2 story Greek style mystery building

Hall of Dancers cornice

tree root overtaking wall

tree has taken over the structure

only a tree is holding these giant stones up

capturing the light above the stupa

working on our mudras

Ta Som Temple is one of the smaller temples that hasnt gotten much attention because it is surrounded by other larger temples. It's uniqueness is really the giant strangler fig that has taken over one of the gates. We really liked studying the well preserved bas reliefs without having to look around crowds of tourists.

really amazing to see

beautiful reliefs

See the rows of praying people

so many unique characters

she glowed 

out of the ordinary souvenirs and artisans at this temple

standard Khymr 12th century architecture with towers that have heads and nagas along the entrance steps

Srah Srang was the Royal Bath and is a large lake. A platform that leads to the lake has two big lions looking out at the lake with the railings for the stairs guarded by naga serpents. There are other creatures around the platform that make it special.

one of the lions, looking over several serpents out to the lake

Across the road from Srah Srang is the Banteay Kdei Temple. This temple was used as an active Buddhist monastery on and off until 1960's.  It is very peaceful here as there are few tourists. The funny thing we noticed was a consistent chirping sound, like a low car alarm.  We found out that this chirping was from a type of cicada! This creature was also resident at Angkor Wat. 

Turk hangs out with the lions

a view of one of the corridors

Face on one of the towers

active Buddhist alter within the temple

Angkor WHAT?!

Angkor Wat is just one of the many temples located in the Angkor archaeological area outside of Siem Reap. This 500 acre complex has different temples built in the 11th and 12th century. Angkor Wat was built over 30 years the first half of 12th century.  Angkor Wat was originally built as a Hindu temple, but became a Buddhist temple in the 14th century and Buddha statues were added.

This iconic location was challenging to navigate unless you had your own transportation - which we did.  The more adventurous tourists took elephant rides or bicycles to get around even some of the temples.

proof we are here!

sunset at Angkor Wat

hanging out at the temple in traditional clothes

got it!

the original steps up

the Hindu stories of the beginning of the earth and people cover all the walls

a cast of thousands

a view from within the walls of the temple

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finding an apsara

seen during the day...in the heat of December!

more views inside the walls

sunrise

early riser was there before the sun

detailed carvings around every corner, + apsaras!

On day 2, we got up at 4:30am to make it to Angkor Wat for sunrise. A peaceful early  morning with 200 other crazy tourists. The really nice part was that we could walk around without crowds, without the noise of tour guides, without waiting in lines to get into temples.  I got to see even more apsaras!

every apsara is different! But all have big bosoms! 

another set of apsaras with different headdresses and shapes

example of the detailed carvings - see apsara in filigri

not an apsara!!

more apsaras - notice the fabric designs and different arm positions

Wonders of Cambodia

I was excited that we were going to Siem Reap, home of Angkor Wat and its nearby temples, but I was also excited to learn more about today's Cambodia. To me, Cambodia was one of the countries that absorbed the Vietnam War and then afterwards, was the home of Pol Pot's Communist Khmer Rouge regime in 1975-1979 meant to convert a country to a fantasy socialist society. 1.7 million people, a quarter of the population, died in this failed conversion before battles with Vietnam led to the dissolution of the Communist government.
We were introduced to the rich Khmer culture by seeing their classical ballet that originated in the 7th century, called Apsara dance. Apsaras are beautiful female creatures that visit earth from heaven to entertain kings and gods with their dance.

Ornate costumes

 Apsaras come from Hindu mythology where the legend says they were born from the churning of the Ocean of Milk. This story is carved on the walls of Angkor Wat, and Apsaras are seen throughout the temple complex.  These nymphs would protect the king of gods by seducing threatening mortals with their beauty. Mortals and divinities could not resist their charm.

The food throughout this whole trip was delicious and healthy. Not sure what makes up Cambodian food, an example is Banana Flower salad with chicken - carrot, garlic, shallot, parsley, sweet basil, roasted peanut, lime and banana flower.

appetizer

a Giant shown with fangs menaces the apsaras

hands are formed to bend when girls are very young

ornate silk costumes and detailed jewelry and headware

We headed to Ta Phahm temple, known today as the location where Tomb Raiders was filmed. When the site was excavated, it was decided to retain many of the trees that had overgrown the temple walls.  Disney uses this look for their Jungle Cruise.

tree roots grow over, around wall- Ta Prohm

the tomb in the movie Tomb Raiders with Anjolina Jolie

what the ruins look like with no rebuild

I made it to an overgrown location and had a hard time getting the Turks attention to join me for the photo.  This is while crowds of people from all over the world waited..and waited..!

another tree takes over

I'm WAITING for the Turk!

he makes his entrance

finally!!

Siem Reap is a hub for tourists who come to see Angkor Wat - and the nightlife reflects that. We ended up at Pub Street in the evening where open bars, restaurants, shops are everywhere, and there isnt a language not spoken. Our 'uber' ride was a tuk tuk which made it even more fun.

Hindu Temple converted to Buddhist temple

the 'railing' across the moat is really the body of the Naga serpent

Pub Street - heart of the action in Siem Reap

what a combo - Mexican and Khmer !!

You could find any kind of food in Siem Reap.  At one point, we were stopped by a flash mob, a Korean dance troup..right there on Pub Street - see video.

our BBQ choices!

this is BURGER KING! I couldnt get the whole sign from the fast moving tuk tuk.

Street scenes in Siem Reap - always interesting.  

Mostly motor bikes. Nice cars were 'owned' by government people

everything piled atop vehicles

this tractor truck and trailer had amazing carved wood furniture

maybe this pot on the side of the road is used for dinner?

Our hotel was nice but the most important thing was the pool. The heat in Cambodia, especially when spending most of the day at the archaeological sites, was draining. The pool came in very handy...as did the beer we bought at the nearby grocery (much cheaper than hotel beer and more choices). 

Turk mimics hotel personality

view of our pool from our balcony. pool was such a relief in that heat