Wanderings Around San Grasso National Park

Many castles, monasteries, churches, hiking trails, and medieval villages to visit in this area. Our apartment neighbor in SS di Sessanio told us we HAD to visit the San Pellegrino monastery. I had read nothing about it, but he was insistent so we jumped in the Fiat and went to the village of Bominaco in search. What we found was amazing.
The original Abbey was founded by Charlemagne around the 8th century as a result of an apparition telling him to honor San Pellegrino, a Syrian martyr. The site is a former pagan temple - as often happened.  He charged the Benedictine monks to build this monastery supposedly as the burial place for San Pellegrino.

giant St Christopher on entrance wall.

This is an operating church and we had to call someone in the town to let us into it. Once we were in, the lights are turned on for about 5 minutes  - that's all! We were allowed to take 2 photos - but clearly I cant count.

you can follow the life of Jesus through the images. but along the bottom are scenes from hell with demons and naked people

apostles and other saints

 On the ceiling, we found an astrological calendar with each month identified by its sign, phase of the moon, and a human representative. The purpose was to help the monks plan their liturgy, or plan their planting - depending on who is telling the story.

astrological calendar

not sure who the hairy dude is

humble entrance to the monastery

back door

Behind the monastery is the Church of Santa Maria Assunta - built as a fortress like Romanesque church. The church was started around 1000 AD.

We heard that the city of L'Aquila was largely destroyed in the 2009 earthquake, but we still wanted to check it out. We found some progress - its been 6 years! But so much left to do.  The old part of the city is held up with steel and wood in hopes to revive the ancient structures and reconstruct the city to look like it did. In the refurbished areas, we found interesting shops and restaurants, but it is clear that many people are still displaced.

main square of L'Aquila

steel girders holding up the walls

courtyard of a home partially renovated

cranes and construction equipment is too large for these small streets

art exibit showing photos from the earthquake

In L'Aquila, we found a basilica that was mostly in tack.  Basilica of San Bernardino, the region's largest church, was built in the mid 15th cent. It is in the process of renovation - but most of it is completed.  San Bernardino's body lies in state in one of the side chapels.

the tomb of San Bernardino

We decided to hike up to another castle. San Pio delle Camere is  a great example of  the style of castle built as an isosceles triangle. The town sits below - in easy range for the townspeople to bring their sheep and get to the castle if under attack.

San Pio delle Camere located above the town.

 

looking down on the town

We are always on the look out for chocolate, and while driving around we saw a sign, in Italian of course, that seemed to say there was a chocolate factory nearby. Out of curiosity we followed the signs and came to a building in an industrial park. We peered into the windows and saw...chocolate! But no one was around to answer our knocks. As we sadly climbed into the Fiat, the door opened and a couple came out to greet us. Yea!  They make molded chocolates like shoes, easter eggs, etc. But also filled chocolates which got our attention when we tasted the grappa and lemoncello filled dark chocolates. Wrap 'em up! We left with 2 bags and lots of samples.

happy Turk with chocolates

We had yet to visit a waterfall, and what luck to find one nearby.

waterfall is quiet in the dry season - summer

hand manipulated dam for the stream coming from the waterfall.

Santo Stefano di Sessanio - walled medieval city

We wanted to stay in the San Grasso National Park for more hiking, so I found an agriturismo pension just outside the walls of the medieval city of Santo Stefano di Sessanio.

We stayed in a cute, comfortable apartment with a kitchen equipped with a miniature orange refrigerator and 4 burner stove, dining table, couch and TV, bedroom, large bathroom and a loft that could sleep 3. The owner brings us fresh eggs for breakfast from the neighbor's chickens. Our 2 balconies overlooked the town and mountains. Our ‘backyard’ was terraced with stones and surrounded with almond trees. When we werent exploring the area castles and medieval villages, we sat outside with wine and cheese and watched the world go by. And we'd talk with our apartment neighbors – a family from Rome. Pinny is very talkative and informative since he comes to this apartment annually. In typical Italian manner, he relaxes in the sun, napping or reading until his mother wants to go and pick herbs. At that point the family piles into the van to look for herbs on the side of the road.

Enjoying our back yard with Santo Stefano in the background

our kitchen with orange refrigerator

eggs for breakfast!

The Turk was amused with the warnings on the beer bottles - you will get pregnant or run into a car if you drink beer in Italy

The Turk and I wandered the old village and found, like Castel di Monte, the cobbled streets are windy and steep. There is a benefactor who is renovating the village after the 2009 earthquake that devastated the area. He offered to do this only if the government approved his plans and agreed to prevent modern buildings from being constructed nearby.

 Apparently this agreement worked and he is renovating according to historical record. He is also developing hotel rooms from the renovated stone homes that use hand made blankets and furniture. His restaurant is known for its excellent local cuisine, and is expensive. Other restaurants and bars are moving in and attracting a growing volume of tourists. But the volume is still small compared with typical tourist attractions which keeps the ambiance charming.

Much to the Turk’s happiness, we found that the local specialty is lentils. He had lentil soup every night and it wass quite wonderful. SS di Sessanio lentils are small dark balls and have a meaty flavor. They retain their shape when cooked, unlike red lentils we use at home.

We are continuing our wine experiences by trying different wines each day. There is a wine shop in the village and the Montepulciano d’Abruzza wines have not disappointed.

SS di Sessanio under repairs after 2009 earthquake

village's trademarked tower collapsed in the quake - framing is up for rebuilding

narrowest walkway!

Abruzzo sheep dog

Door in town

street that is not renovated

food was great. ricotta cheesecake and digestives

Medieval Villages and Castles Out the Wazoo

View from  Rocca Calascio  (rock castle)

We drove back roads from Roccamorice toward Santo de Stefano di Sessanio, following a trail of medival castles and villages.I noticed a medieval tower on the hilltop from the road, so we stopped to walk the hill.  This was the medieval tower of Forca di Penne.  It was built along a pass that would be strategic for any feudal lord. 
 

Tower of Forca di Penne

View from the tower

Then we came to the village Castel del Monte – a cluster of stone buildings anchored to the top of a mountain. It is one of the highest villages in the Apennines. There isn’t a flat street/alleyway as the village was built on the mountain rock. The buildings and alleys follow the flow of the rock that makes for interesting angles, tunnels, and levels. Anyone living here would be in great shape as you are constantly stepping up or down.  And the defensive advantage is that 'visitors' would not easily find their way through town if they arrived unwelcomed. The village is being restored after the 2009 earthquake. Two large modern cranes stuck out of this rocky ancient village which made it look like a movie set rather than a restoration.

windy street in Castel del Monte

no flat walkway

 Perfect place for a picnic. We found a food store with wonderful foccacia and cookies. We found out that this area is known for their cookies, and skiing. We found a spot in town near the fountain to lay out our spread: focaccia, olive oil, fruit, and pecorino cheese that we purchased on the way to town from a woman who made and sold cheeses from her home, an ugly tomato we purchased from the farmer in the town center in Roccamorice before we left, and the cookies of course.

lunch!

Chef

Then on to the isolated medieval castle, Rocca Calascio sitting at 1500m – the highest Italian castle. This castle was shown in the movie: Ladyhawk.  We hiked an hour to the top where we viewed the nearby octagonal church of Madonna della Pieta, built in the late 16^th century. Then we took a rocky climb to the castle ruins. The views from here are astounding. This is the center of the Gran Sasso National Park. You clearly see the peak of Corno Grande, the chain’s tallest.  10^th century barons chose this place for obvious reasons of security, but I think also  beauty.

Castel atop the mountain that we hiked!

The Turk leads the way past one of the walls

Castel Calascio

Nearby church

Corno Grande peak in the background

looking through tower window opening toward other buildings and walls