Friday, April 11, 2014

Sand, Sun, Crocodiles, Iguanas and Surfers

The Turk and I jumped in our travelmobile and headed west - to the Pacific coast, specifically to Manuel Antonia National Park, the busiest park in CR.  This area is an hour south of popular surf and party town Jaco, and is just as busy.  But the Turk and I figured out that partyers stay up late and get up late - so we hit our destinations early and were rewarded with private beach spots and critters getting their breakfasts.  This was a 3 day, 2 night excursion - our last before heading  back to Florida. We stayed at a cute hotel called  Mimo's between Quepos and Manuel Antonio town. The Turk liked their pool because it was WARM and sat next to the bar where we found ourselves during happy hour each day.  The only practical place to be since it was so hot and we had spent the morning hiking and playing in the ocean waves.

Surf's up!

The regulars at the pool at Mimo's
Gotta love the shade
Our first day was spent traveling, quick exploration of the area and playing in the pool. We had to check out the restaurant El Avion because it was built around an airplane. The airplane was owned by the CIA and located in San Jose CR airport to be used against the Sandinista's in the Oliver North Iran-Contra project.  When its sister plane was shot down October 5, 1986, the public started to find out about the illegal CIA operation.  And, with the operation halted, this plane was never engaged.  It was purchased in 2000 (sitting at the airport all of this time) and shipped to Quepos port to be hauled up to Manuel Antonio town.  The views of the Pacific and surrounding islands and beaches were wonderful.  We were somewhat joined by a sloth - but he just hung out at the nearby tree.  Overall - restaurant was 'OK', and we'd recommend drinks only in the future.

The plane,C-123, is a bar, restaurant overlooking the ocean is behind it.

more amazing CR furniture!

Sloth hanging near our table on the balcony
We were saving our energy for the following day of hiking and exploring Manuel Antonio part.  Our objective? find monkeys!  Up to now, we've only heard them and seen fleeting shadows, but our hopes were high to see many at the park and on the beaches. And we werent disappointed!
Squirrel monkey

His buddies - you could watch them play for hours
The park!

view from our hike

Toward end of hike - in need of cooling down. Before the masses arrived
The Turk is always foraging for food - I dont complain because I like to eat - and he decided we needed to drink/eat coconuts. He had many on the beach to choose from, but the challenge became - how to open the coconut without man made tools.  He found a dried, pointed tree limb that did most of the work as he smashed the coconut down on it. We got to drink the coconut water, and then he took a rock and broke up the shell so we could eat the meat.  I realize clearly now why coconut is shredded.  Its  because that's how your teeth grab it so you can eat it.
cracking the shell on dried tree branch

tastes best when you open it yourself

YUM!




 When the masses of tourists started to invade 'our' private beach, we headed out past the crocodile pond and toward town where we had an amazing lunch at restaurant El Sol - ceviche and three seafood plate of tuna, jumbo shrimp and mahi mahi.  We sat upstairs overlooking the  beach and crazy tourists.  A nice way to spend the hot part of the day - before going  back to Mimo's to our pool and pool bar!
this is the croc pond - no swimming here!
Iguanas are everywhere - but I thought this one was particularly attractive

Sunset!  We are on the Pacific coast, so we have to 'do' sunset.  We went to Ronnies, a small restaurant on a very rough, dirt, rocky road that overlooks a cliff and, below, the ocean. I tried the local alcohol made of sugar cane called Guaro. I could see how this might result in a serious hangover, so one was enough for me!  We had a cloudy sunset, but it was still nice to watch from the cliff.
hopeful for  a 'sizzler'' sunset

this must be what I look like after a day hiking, swimming, and then drinking Guaro!

amazing clouds, but they prevented a 'sizzler' sunset

Next day, we got to a quiet part of the public beach early, so early that the Tico who collects parking fees wasnt there - so we didnt pay to park.  I suspect that he just shows up and tells tourists to pay him for parking which seems a bit typical here.  But then, he has to sit at the beach all day to 'watch' the vehicles, so I guess he earns his money.  We found a shaded area to hide out from the sun.
As the morning progressed, the waves got bigger and bigger.  I dragged the Turk to the water to show him how to play in the waves without drowning.  What he didnt listen to was my suggestion that he remove the hotel keys from his pocket.  That  became a $50 mistake!  We realized the waves were indeed getting big when the surfers started coming down to the beach. After a while, they owned one whole section of the beach - and were fun to watch.
Turk, wishing he had the hotel keys

cheesecake photo


a few of the surfers

On our way out, we tried another of the restaurants owned by the El Avion guy.  He found a Costa Rican train car and used it with his El Wagon restaurant.  The train system in Costa Rica was developed by a British guy who employed Jamaican and Chinese workers because they had resistance to malaria. As a results, you see blacks and asians as 'natives' of Costa Rica.  The train system was the lifeblood of  the banana industry.  We went here because of the train, but MOSTLY because they have a wood fire pizza oven. And that is what we had for lunch, and it was Great!
Notice the pizza oven is made with glass alcohol bottles - clever.  And the floor is mosaic tiles in the shapes of local animals.

the wood inside and outside is beautiful costa rican hardwood
these rocking chairs break down to be flat for storage

Delish!


Time to go! Too many people at the beach


Tuesday, April 8, 2014

We Can Find Wine Anywhere!

Yes, we found a little winery on the road to Atenas.  I've read that Costa Rican wine is in its infancy, so we didnt expect much. Seems a wine maker from Napa has been involved in selection and planting in an area near Terrazu where they are anticipating their first harvest and bottling in 2015.
But we wanted something now, and we found the only currently active winery in CR.   The Turk and I dropped our visitors from Atlanta off at the airport and were passing the winery at 9:30 in the morning and thought - why not stop in.  So we did - probably to the chagrin of the owner who was busy doing business.
The owner didnt speak any English, so there was alot of shaking of hands and handing out of tiny wine samples.  The wine was mostly sweet and very light.  Best for drinking by the pool.
owner kindly took our pic - probably so he could get back to work!
looks pretty legitimate to me!


Saturday, April 5, 2014

Happy Cows

Calf is sucking my thumb!!!
Just south of Poas Volcano is the town of Poasito where Judy's friend, Ricardo Gurdian has a dairy farm.  He and one of his daughters, Liz,  kindly agreed to show us around.  We started with the calves who were staying in their 'nursery' barn until they grew enough to mingle with the older cows. The calves are fed with bottles, get time to frolic in the nearby field, and receive lots of attention while they grow.
Ricardo showing us the calf barn

Ricardo, Liz and granddaughter Claudia watching the cows come in for milking

Cute calf!
We looked up the hill to see the cows coming down from the pastures for their milking - something they very much want to happen. Cows are not stupid animals and quickly learn the routines. In fact, Ricardo told us that the cows figure out which field they are to graze by noticing the single wire closing the path to the pastures they will not use.  They change pastures twice a day - after each milking.
Here come the cows

Cows having their afternoon 'cocktail' of water before milking
The cows arrive and immediately get to the water trough. Once they drink, they enter the feeding barn where they get to eat their special mix of grains, molasses and vitamins. Then comes the milking.  The herd is typically around 200 cows and with mechanized milking, it takes about 2 hours to milk all of them.
Cows having their dinner before milking. Each one knows their special spot

10 cows getting milked at a time - and they seem to like it

Later, we hopped into the Land Rover to get a tour of the pastureland, and to hear an amazing story about the big earthquake in 2009.  The quake almost destroyed Ricardo's home at the dairy farm, and it tore up the dairy equipment, putting the cows and the milking process in jeopardy.  Lucky for Ricardo, he had an electrician visiting the day of the quake and he stayed at the dairy until they could repair the milking machinery and get the cows back on their schedule.  Meanwhile, Ricardo stayed at the house without water or electricity to keep it and the dairy safe while the country started to recover.
Ricardo showed us where there used to be a small stream. After the quake, the stream disappeared completely.  Several years later, the water exploded from the source of the stream, tearing open the earth, destroying trees and ground that lay in its path as it made its way down the hills narrowly missing the town.  Today,  we saw this path of destruction and tried to comprehend what had happened.
Ricardo and Claudia getting past the cows

At the top of Ricardo's pastures, accessible only via Range Rover or horse - amazing views



More Volcanos!

The Turk and I welcomed old friend Judy and new friend Dee to our casa costa rica for a long weekend.  Lots to show them as we played the locals.  Friday market was fun as always and we decided to try lots of things we had never seen before.  And we brought home lots of fruit which was somewhat the theme of the week.  But after the 'hard' work of food shopping, we headed back to the house, to the pool and to fruit drinks and yummy food by the Turk.  After all, we had to rest up for the next day of volcano hiking!



Poas Volcano is an hour and half north of us, into a cloud forest.  The volcano is still active - the last big activity was February 25, 2014.   The phenomenon, called a phreatic explosion, occurred due to a reaction between magma and water at the southern border of the lake inside the volcano. However, this was not an eruption and the volcano did not spew lava. Instead, a column of steam, gas and other materials formed and spouted out the top of the volcano, confirmed the Volcanological and Seismological Observatory of Costa Rica (OVSICORI).

You must get to the volcano to see it before 10am when the clouds move in so we were all up by 6:30am and out the door by 7:45. We had great views of everything, and earned those views with some sure footed hiking up and down the trails from the active cone to the cone that is now a lake. 

 The hiking was fun because it was cool - we were in a cloud forest, and there were interesting plants along the way. My favorites were the bromeliads which have been plentiful across Costa Rica. I never tire of them!
We were surprised at one point to hear the obnoxious roar of a leaf blower.  It seems that volunteers come to maintain the trails. There were some leaves on the trails, but nothing that remotely required effort to move, much less an annoying leaf blower - gas powered.  Throughout this trip, I keep seeing that Costa Rica advertises itself as environmentally focused and working towards more sustainable businesses.  But I dont see this coming to pass by Costa Ricans, only by ex-pats who are investing in CR.  We still see alot of garbage along the roads, people burning anything they can, black smoke coming from vehicles.  It will be interesting to see how the country's approach to sustainability develops.
The gift shop had the typical souvenirs, but also had a display of tires, recycled as art - in this case the tires became toucans!