Behind the Scenes at Ephesus

A trip to Ephesus is always interesting, especially when Mark’s youngest brother manages all of the workers who work for the archeologists which provides us complete access to anything we want to see. The archeologists tell Ibo what they need, and he gets it done.
The primary archeological team is from Austria who has funded research in Turkey for over 100 years except during the world wars. There is now also a team from Italy helping them.  We had access to the archeologists as well as the federal head of Turkey’s archeology program for the Efes (Turkish spelling) who was visiting this day and who is Ibo's boss.  All were more than excited to tell us what they were finding and the stories of Efes and its people.

photo shot from the crane

Efes was initially built in the years before Christ and became the largest and most important city in the western world with over 250,000 citizens. To compare, today’s city of Selcuk, located outside of Efes has approximately 27,000 population, which has grown from 8000 since mark left here in the 1980’s.

 The port town was full of merchants who traded across the Mediterranean into Africa and across the silk route to China.  The wealthy residents’ homes reflect this with marble from various worldwide locations. Since marble is prevalent in Turkey (you see it in even the poorest homes today), it was prestigious to show you had marble from other countries.

After Christ’s death, St Paul and other apostles as well as Jesus’ mother Mary came to Efes. The apostles to spread Christianity amongst the residents who believed in multiple gods (Artemis Temple was located across a hillside from Efes) and Mary to a nearby hillside to live her final days. (you can visit her home which is a short drive from Efes).

see the water pipe on right side of wall

The city had everything you expect in a city today – shopping centers, main streets paved in marble with columns that held lanterns at night, public baths and toilets, brothel, marble cutters and tradesmen, large and small amphitheaters, but no churches/mosques initially as there was no organized religion.  There was even a water/sewage system complete with pipes to the homes (of the wealthy) to service their toilets, sinks and bathtubs.  These homes also had saunas and water ran under main rooms to cool them in the summer.  Like today, there were often theatre rooms too, though I saw no large screen TVs.

Looking down on main room -which had open roof - and surrounding hallways to other rooms. All with mosaic floors

rooms of 1 house with mosaic floors and frescoed walls. Rooms with no windows surround the open roofed central room which provides the ventilation and light.

fresco from the theatre room

In the 3^rd century, there was a major earthquake which destroyed much of Efes with collapsing walls and fires.  On one marble floor, we found the imprint of melted coins. It is guessed that the resident grabbed his coins during the earthquake while he ran out of his home. The coins that dropped to the floor were melted in the fires.

round gray marks are melted coins

neptune in floor mosaic

After the collapse of Efes, the Byzantines (Christians) moved into the area and salvaged from the destroyed buildings to build their own buildings – mills, churches and homes.  You can see pieces of columns or carved marble used as building materials in these walls.  Alas, another major earthquake struck the area in this time which caused the death of the city. The harbor had begun filling in with silt from the surrounding hillsides which rendered the port useless.  There was no longer a reason for Efes to exist, so it lay in ruin with dirt filling in the spaces over the centuries…preserving what was there.  Mark played here as a kid, but there are now fences around most of the city boundaries, jendarmes guarding it day and night, and large fees to see the site.  But there is a lot of restoration and excavation work going on, as I could compare with 12 years ago when I last visited.

glass mosaic ceiling

Yes, they had naked women, and men, on their walls

Ibo and I get ready for the lift

The 7 hillside homes of the wealthy were still being excavated back then, and today they are available for viewing under the protection of a building.  The largest project currently in progress is the restoration of the large amphitheater. The side walls have collapsed through the years and the rear stairway entrance/exists had been covered with the hillside. These access ways are now excavated and the side walls are being worked on.

This is where I was given a special tour via the 20 story(?) crane.  I got into the basket with Ibo and we were lifted above Efes for a birds eye view – truly an amazing experience.  Mark’s fear of heights kept him in the amphitheatre waving furiously at me and hoping I didn’t fall out.

looking across to what is holding me up over the amphitheater

We climbed one of the hillsides to view a cave that was recently rediscovered.  It is from Byzantine times and you can see fresco paintings from the Old Testament as well as the new.  The archeologists told us that they have found up to 5 layers of paintings and are trying to learn from each layer without removing it.  The cave was somewhat known, but the interior was painted white.  While looking around the cave, one of the archeologists realized there was color behind the whitewash.  And that was the discovery.  They think the white wash happened in the 1800’s by locals (Muslims) who didn’t want to see Christian images.  They also know that Greeks from nearby Sirince (about 9 kilometers away) would make annual pilgrimages to this cave the Friday after Easter each year. But they don’t know why. A professor was in the cave recording the Greek writing etched on the walls so that it could be translated. 

St Paul and Mary painted in the cave

We had lunch with the crew near the hillside homes, and later, tea with the folks at the amphitheatre. I found out that one full time job with these crews is that of tea maker! This also includes cleaning up after tea, but keeps them busy the full day. 

mark and his other brother Adnan who's working on the amphitheater

A visit is not complete without visiting the necropolis since I love cemeteries. Efes had their own sarcophagus style which included garland around the box.  We noticed angels on one which would indicate a Byzantine era.

I think that to be a typical archeologist in turkey, one must be a woman with beautiful skin and eyes, great patience, and a slight build.  The women we met definitely fit this description!  The men were a tad geeky. They live from the spring to fall in Selcuk where they can work at Efes on their projects. When winter comes, they return to their base which can be Istanbul or even back to Austria where they conduct research on what they found over the summer. I met one woman who I remember showed us around 12 years ago - so they stay with their project a long time, perhaps their career.

Sites Along the Turquoise Coast

Mark directs us to sea

Captain Umut plots our course

Our boat is based on the Turkish fishing boat called a gulet. We are at a dock in Kerkova, a Greek town without streets...and without Greeks since the Exchange in the 1920's. (Exchange is when Turkey united to become a country after WWI, and 'requested' the Greeks to go to their own country).    

you never knew who would show up in a boat and try to sell us something!

Byzantine castle at top, no streets...or even concrete in the town. tombs EVERYWHERE including the water

Tomb is the house-like stone in the water. Water has risen since it was placed. Ancient communities in this area have been destroyed many times by earthquakes.  There is even a sunken city due to one.

tombs, tombs everywhere - alot of dead people from early Greek period

One of our swimming coves guarded by a goat

Arts and crafts time..between swimming, beers and raki.

We came upon Kumal Ataturk's boat from post WWI which he used to rally the people to form a new country. It is now privately owned, and is very well cared for. Captain Umut played the Turkish national anthem as we sailed past. Turks are nothing if not nationalistic!

approaching pirates cave

Swimming, illegally,in the cave. I am the middle one with waving arm.

What a Way to Experience the Mediterranean

We are back from our 4 day 'Blue Cruise' along the Turquoise Coast of Turkey.  There is a reason it is called turquoise - the water is crystal clear to all depths and brilliant colors of turquoise. While there are some beaches, most of the coastlines from the mainland to the islands are rocky lands jutting up from the ocean depths. In fact, this is caused by centuries of earthquakes, which also devastated many of the ancient cities.

Tombs conveniently located in the mountainside

We started from Fetiye which is known for its port, amphitheater, and also the Lycean tombs carved as caves in the mountain side and as free standing tombs. In fact, we saw these along the whole cruise as it follows the Lycean coast. It is known that a whole city sits under the modern town, but it is impractical to excavate any more than has been done.

Yep - a Lycean tomb in the middle of the road

As proof of the volume of ancient things, they actually built the road around one of the tombs which sits feet fro a larger grouping of tombs.

We boarded our Turkish gulet the day after arriving in Fetiye and were ready for an adventure...we actually werent sure what we were ready for - but we were ready.  Our Turkish crew of 3 were young - maybe its just my perspective due to advancing age! They were within their first quarter century of age, and full of energy.  The passengers were from New Zealand, Australia, Thailand, Korea, US, France, Canada - though living in the Congo. Mark was the only Turk passenger, and we later learned that Turks are not preferred passengers as the European passengers don't want them. At least this is what we were told. Our group loved that Mark was aboard. And Mark loved being interpreter with the crew and village residents, as well as spokesperson for Turkey - he's a natural tour guide!

Spacious cabin and smiling cabin boy

Brushing salt water rinsed hair while others still sleep

Our deck beds

Perfect!

  Our typical day began soon after sun up since we slept on deck. Its wonderful to be rocked to sleep by the calm movement of the water, to look into the night sky and see billions of stars, to hear the turtles splash the water when they come up for air, and maybe not so wonderful to hear the soft snores of those around you!   The crew would start to get busy making our Turkish breakfast of tea, coffee, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, bread, nutella, eggs and sometimes watermelon. After breakfast we'd jump into the water for a swim, before setting off to our next destination.

Our favorite dance - Turkish men dancing together

Upon arrival, we'd swim again or if we were at a dock, we'd explore the town for a while. Lunch was usually pasta and beans and yogurt. Then off we'd go again until it was time to anchor for the night and tea time (influenced by the increasing volume of 'English' as they call them). More swimming, and then dinner - fish, chicken or kofte (lamb burgers).  The night was full of Turkish music, dancing, drinking Efes beer or Raki (Turkish ouzo) til the wee hours. 

It was great to spend time with travelers from various locations in the world as each had a refreshing perspective on life and world affairs. They all thought the US was petty in their politics and they liked and respected Obama as president representing the US. Something they'd not thought for the past number of years. All respected other cultures - obvious since they were travelers - and enjoyed Turkish ways, even the frustrating ones. 

The captain Umut (means Hope in Turkish)

First mate/cook at the helm. He and Umut have been working together 8 years. He wants to do something else, but says he can't because Umut loves him.  Note that this means friend love. Turkish men are very demonstrative in their affection. Umut fell in love with one of the Australian travelers and was in the depth of love lost sadness when she left with us at the end of the trip.

typical view while traveling between islands and coves

end of another perfect day!

An Afternoon Walk Through the Centuries

Today, we walked over to Artemis Temple - or what's left of it (see the column in the forefront)  This was one of the 7 Wonders of the World and was a temple that was many times the size of the one in Athens on the acropolis. It burned down - still trying to figure out how a marble structure actually burns down - in 356BC the night that Alexander the Great was born. You just cant make this stuff up!  

The structure was rebuilt, possibly several more times since there were raids by the Goths and other such peoples. Finally those pesky Christians weren't too happy about this structure and possibly helped in its destruction.  Interesting though that pieces of it were used to build other buildings including the Bascilica St John located just right of the castle in this photo (castle is top structure) and later during Ottoman times, Isa Bey Mosque (structure to the left of column, just below the Byzantine castle).  Columns are said to have been used to build the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul (see my Istanbul pics).

Note that Mark used to play here, and at Ephesus when he was growing up.  His house is about 30 min walk from here and you can see the castle and St. John basilica from the house.

Then we walked through the modern cemetery - I love cemeteries - and wandered near the Caves of the 7 Sleepers. Another ancient story tied to a Christian tale.  One of Mark's good pals owns a great outdoor restaurant near there so we had to stop in for some tea. yavuz'un Yeri is a great place where you sit under the fig trees (where Yavuz and he used to sleep and eat figs) on Turkish carpets and pillows and eat delicious food cooked by Turkish women. Specialty includes Gozleme which is also called a pancake. It not a pancake as we know it - but a thin light bread filled with cheese, meat, onions and other goodies. The bread is hand made to order and is cooked atop a metal plate over a wood fire.  Ayran is a necessary accompaniment. 

frothy ayran

they also do this at home, not just for tourists

This dog starts singing when his favorite Turkish song is played. His whole mannerism changes as soon as the song starts - so funny to watch!

The Place for Cruise Ships

We jumped into the mini bus (typical transportation in turkey and very convenient. But dont be on too tight a schedule because the bus driver will sit quite a while until his bus is fully loaded) to Kusadasi which is about 13 miles south of Selcuk. This is the port where the cruise ships dock and where the majority of tourists originate to come to Ephesus via their tour buses.  Downside - the town of Selcuk does not see as much tourist spending as they could because the buses are specific with their stops, minimizing visits to local vendors. When he lived here and worked in the tourist industry, Mark was a strong proponent to increase the access to Selcuk just as the cruise business was in early planning.  The town was not interested and today is seeing the impact of their disinterest.

This could be considered an advantage tho. Selcuk is a small - tho growing - town that has retained its charm. Kusadasi is a bustling city that seem generic to most cities.  We visited nephew Murat in Kusadasi and did enjoy the beautiful waterfront !!

Carnival cruise ship alongside fishing boats

Murat joins us for beer and backgammon

Back in Selcuk in time for dinner-stuffed eggplant!

Celebrations

upper body exercise...sort of

The last day of Bayram was unexpectedly busy.  Nephew Ali showed up to take me and mark to the beach. Ah, the Aegean Sea!  While it was too cold for mark's tender body, Ali and I enjoyed swimming around and watching the tourist party boats come and go.  I kayaked (I think that's what it was) for a while to look around the coast line. Turquoise waters were beautiful- but our beach was rock and that was a bit challenging.

beach bums

Boreks for dinner! made outside in the fire oven just for this purpose, accompanied with ayran - Turkish yogurt drink. Lots of relatives stopped by - it was their last chance for a Bayram appearance. Then I find out we've been invited to a couple of celebrations taking place in the neighborhood.  Because families are already together, a wedding and a going away party (son and his friends were going to serve their Army time) were scheduled.

Fatima leads the crew of borek makers

fig eating supervisor

picked figs between dinner and street party

These kinds of parties require the street to be closed for dancing, sitting, eating. Both had loud music, live or DJ, and there was ONLY Turkish music.  These celebrations are typical and the whole neighborhood takes part.  The young mens' party was interesting to me.  These guys were all being 'guys', hanging out and joking. But they were also wearing Turkish flag scarves, jumping up to dance traditional dances (guys dance together), or to welcome adults coming to the party with the traditional kissing of the visitor's hand and placing it on their forehead. There was a lot of respect shown which was refreshing to see. This is the typical Turkish way.  Respect is a large part of family and friend relationships and there are certain protocol that is followed. If broken, the meaning is unmistakable. 

boys do their best...need experience!

Ibo - mustache - and men show the boys how to dance

The wedding celebration was actually the PRE wedding party. There are special girl dances for the bride which prepare her to have henna put on her hands (which are then wrapped through the night so the henna will stain the hands for the ceremony the following day). These are not detailed henna designs you see with Indian weddings. The palm is basically colored. The guests are all sitting around the dancing - yes, in the middle of the street - while a DJ plays Turkish music. Some was traditional, some modern Turkish music - but no American music!

Ramadan is Done - Bayram Begins

I'll explain all of this in a very uneducated way - so forgive me for errors along the way.  Islam has a yearly month of fasting called Ramadan. Its really more than just fasting, but that's the most obvious part to me.  You can eat before sunrise and then again after sunset. No drinking, of even water, during this time. Not very healthy when Ramadan, which moves across the calendar as the years pass, is during the summer. So excluded are young and old people, those with medical conditions or those who's lives require food and drink through the day (like people working outside, etc.).

In our travels we met a lot of folks who where fasting.  You could usually tell by the late afternoon because they were either sitting in the shade waiting for sunset or were a bit spaced out. One of our waiters dropped our drinks because he was too shaky. 

In many towns, a drummer will walk through the neighborhoods - street by street - waking people up to eat before sunrise (am very happy the drummers are done). Then the evening call to prayers from the mosque gives the ok to break the fast.


After 30 days the end of Ramadan is celebrated with Bayram.  Here in turkey, that means you travel 'home' to where you family lives - like Christmas time.  And then you have 3 days of eating sweets and visiting friends and family. Younger people go and visit older people (so because we are staying with mark's mom, we have had alot of visitors). The younger person kisses the hand of the older person and then touches the hand to their forehead as a greeting and receives candy, money or a gift in return. To the kids, this is like Halloween in that they come to the door and kiss the hand - get candy in return. (advertising is huge starting w/Ramadan - commercials/ads wish people happy Ramadan and then Bayrm from the sponsor, and candy ads jump just before Bayram)  People get dressed up in their finest outfits. Mark's niece is a hairdresser and worked until 3am the night before Bayram to get her clients ready.

Visits typically last 20 minutes and everyone is served homemade baklava if the household made it (I've seen no store bought baklava served) or some special dessert. Then up you go to the next house, to do it again.  Mark's family tends to stay up very late and then sleep in.  We've been surprised to have dressed up visitors arrive while we are still in our pj's!

Those drummers come back as well.  They stand outside of each door and bang the drum and even start singing loudly. Their objective is to annoy you enough to pay them to leave. Some people give money, others give gifts like kitchen towels or olive oil. The drummer has helpers to assist in being annoying and also in carrying the loot.

Mark's family prepared for Bayram with one full day of baklava preparation. His mom is the master filo dough maker and literally rolls out each filo layer for the baklava. I was the dough ball maker and nut spreader (i'm told these are highly specialized tasks given only to skilled craftsmen....and visiting relatives).  The extended family showed up with their dough so that mark's mom could roll their dough.  So, ana worked for over 8 hours rolling dough - with no food or drink! I was exhausted for her.

Mixing the dough

Unending rolling of each filo layer

The baklava pans are so big that they have to be taken to the bread baker for baking. One family member had a catastrophe - the baker burned their baklava. So he took the baker to the city to get the baker to pay for more flour and a 'cost' of remaking the baklava in time for Bayram.

precise cutting

ready for the baker!