What a Way to Experience the Mediterranean

We are back from our 4 day 'Blue Cruise' along the Turquoise Coast of Turkey.  There is a reason it is called turquoise - the water is crystal clear to all depths and brilliant colors of turquoise. While there are some beaches, most of the coastlines from the mainland to the islands are rocky lands jutting up from the ocean depths. In fact, this is caused by centuries of earthquakes, which also devastated many of the ancient cities.

Tombs conveniently located in the mountainside

We started from Fetiye which is known for its port, amphitheater, and also the Lycean tombs carved as caves in the mountain side and as free standing tombs. In fact, we saw these along the whole cruise as it follows the Lycean coast. It is known that a whole city sits under the modern town, but it is impractical to excavate any more than has been done.

Yep - a Lycean tomb in the middle of the road

As proof of the volume of ancient things, they actually built the road around one of the tombs which sits feet fro a larger grouping of tombs.

We boarded our Turkish gulet the day after arriving in Fetiye and were ready for an adventure...we actually werent sure what we were ready for - but we were ready.  Our Turkish crew of 3 were young - maybe its just my perspective due to advancing age! They were within their first quarter century of age, and full of energy.  The passengers were from New Zealand, Australia, Thailand, Korea, US, France, Canada - though living in the Congo. Mark was the only Turk passenger, and we later learned that Turks are not preferred passengers as the European passengers don't want them. At least this is what we were told. Our group loved that Mark was aboard. And Mark loved being interpreter with the crew and village residents, as well as spokesperson for Turkey - he's a natural tour guide!

Spacious cabin and smiling cabin boy

Brushing salt water rinsed hair while others still sleep

Our deck beds

Perfect!

  Our typical day began soon after sun up since we slept on deck. Its wonderful to be rocked to sleep by the calm movement of the water, to look into the night sky and see billions of stars, to hear the turtles splash the water when they come up for air, and maybe not so wonderful to hear the soft snores of those around you!   The crew would start to get busy making our Turkish breakfast of tea, coffee, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, bread, nutella, eggs and sometimes watermelon. After breakfast we'd jump into the water for a swim, before setting off to our next destination.

Our favorite dance - Turkish men dancing together

Upon arrival, we'd swim again or if we were at a dock, we'd explore the town for a while. Lunch was usually pasta and beans and yogurt. Then off we'd go again until it was time to anchor for the night and tea time (influenced by the increasing volume of 'English' as they call them). More swimming, and then dinner - fish, chicken or kofte (lamb burgers).  The night was full of Turkish music, dancing, drinking Efes beer or Raki (Turkish ouzo) til the wee hours. 

It was great to spend time with travelers from various locations in the world as each had a refreshing perspective on life and world affairs. They all thought the US was petty in their politics and they liked and respected Obama as president representing the US. Something they'd not thought for the past number of years. All respected other cultures - obvious since they were travelers - and enjoyed Turkish ways, even the frustrating ones. 

The captain Umut (means Hope in Turkish)

First mate/cook at the helm. He and Umut have been working together 8 years. He wants to do something else, but says he can't because Umut loves him.  Note that this means friend love. Turkish men are very demonstrative in their affection. Umut fell in love with one of the Australian travelers and was in the depth of love lost sadness when she left with us at the end of the trip.

typical view while traveling between islands and coves

end of another perfect day!

An Afternoon Walk Through the Centuries

Today, we walked over to Artemis Temple - or what's left of it (see the column in the forefront)  This was one of the 7 Wonders of the World and was a temple that was many times the size of the one in Athens on the acropolis. It burned down - still trying to figure out how a marble structure actually burns down - in 356BC the night that Alexander the Great was born. You just cant make this stuff up!  

The structure was rebuilt, possibly several more times since there were raids by the Goths and other such peoples. Finally those pesky Christians weren't too happy about this structure and possibly helped in its destruction.  Interesting though that pieces of it were used to build other buildings including the Bascilica St John located just right of the castle in this photo (castle is top structure) and later during Ottoman times, Isa Bey Mosque (structure to the left of column, just below the Byzantine castle).  Columns are said to have been used to build the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul (see my Istanbul pics).

Note that Mark used to play here, and at Ephesus when he was growing up.  His house is about 30 min walk from here and you can see the castle and St. John basilica from the house.

Then we walked through the modern cemetery - I love cemeteries - and wandered near the Caves of the 7 Sleepers. Another ancient story tied to a Christian tale.  One of Mark's good pals owns a great outdoor restaurant near there so we had to stop in for some tea. yavuz'un Yeri is a great place where you sit under the fig trees (where Yavuz and he used to sleep and eat figs) on Turkish carpets and pillows and eat delicious food cooked by Turkish women. Specialty includes Gozleme which is also called a pancake. It not a pancake as we know it - but a thin light bread filled with cheese, meat, onions and other goodies. The bread is hand made to order and is cooked atop a metal plate over a wood fire.  Ayran is a necessary accompaniment. 

frothy ayran

they also do this at home, not just for tourists

This dog starts singing when his favorite Turkish song is played. His whole mannerism changes as soon as the song starts - so funny to watch!

The Place for Cruise Ships

We jumped into the mini bus (typical transportation in turkey and very convenient. But dont be on too tight a schedule because the bus driver will sit quite a while until his bus is fully loaded) to Kusadasi which is about 13 miles south of Selcuk. This is the port where the cruise ships dock and where the majority of tourists originate to come to Ephesus via their tour buses.  Downside - the town of Selcuk does not see as much tourist spending as they could because the buses are specific with their stops, minimizing visits to local vendors. When he lived here and worked in the tourist industry, Mark was a strong proponent to increase the access to Selcuk just as the cruise business was in early planning.  The town was not interested and today is seeing the impact of their disinterest.

This could be considered an advantage tho. Selcuk is a small - tho growing - town that has retained its charm. Kusadasi is a bustling city that seem generic to most cities.  We visited nephew Murat in Kusadasi and did enjoy the beautiful waterfront !!

Carnival cruise ship alongside fishing boats

Murat joins us for beer and backgammon

Back in Selcuk in time for dinner-stuffed eggplant!

Celebrations

upper body exercise...sort of

The last day of Bayram was unexpectedly busy.  Nephew Ali showed up to take me and mark to the beach. Ah, the Aegean Sea!  While it was too cold for mark's tender body, Ali and I enjoyed swimming around and watching the tourist party boats come and go.  I kayaked (I think that's what it was) for a while to look around the coast line. Turquoise waters were beautiful- but our beach was rock and that was a bit challenging.

beach bums

Boreks for dinner! made outside in the fire oven just for this purpose, accompanied with ayran - Turkish yogurt drink. Lots of relatives stopped by - it was their last chance for a Bayram appearance. Then I find out we've been invited to a couple of celebrations taking place in the neighborhood.  Because families are already together, a wedding and a going away party (son and his friends were going to serve their Army time) were scheduled.

Fatima leads the crew of borek makers

fig eating supervisor

picked figs between dinner and street party

These kinds of parties require the street to be closed for dancing, sitting, eating. Both had loud music, live or DJ, and there was ONLY Turkish music.  These celebrations are typical and the whole neighborhood takes part.  The young mens' party was interesting to me.  These guys were all being 'guys', hanging out and joking. But they were also wearing Turkish flag scarves, jumping up to dance traditional dances (guys dance together), or to welcome adults coming to the party with the traditional kissing of the visitor's hand and placing it on their forehead. There was a lot of respect shown which was refreshing to see. This is the typical Turkish way.  Respect is a large part of family and friend relationships and there are certain protocol that is followed. If broken, the meaning is unmistakable. 

boys do their best...need experience!

Ibo - mustache - and men show the boys how to dance

The wedding celebration was actually the PRE wedding party. There are special girl dances for the bride which prepare her to have henna put on her hands (which are then wrapped through the night so the henna will stain the hands for the ceremony the following day). These are not detailed henna designs you see with Indian weddings. The palm is basically colored. The guests are all sitting around the dancing - yes, in the middle of the street - while a DJ plays Turkish music. Some was traditional, some modern Turkish music - but no American music!

Ramadan is Done - Bayram Begins

I'll explain all of this in a very uneducated way - so forgive me for errors along the way.  Islam has a yearly month of fasting called Ramadan. Its really more than just fasting, but that's the most obvious part to me.  You can eat before sunrise and then again after sunset. No drinking, of even water, during this time. Not very healthy when Ramadan, which moves across the calendar as the years pass, is during the summer. So excluded are young and old people, those with medical conditions or those who's lives require food and drink through the day (like people working outside, etc.).

In our travels we met a lot of folks who where fasting.  You could usually tell by the late afternoon because they were either sitting in the shade waiting for sunset or were a bit spaced out. One of our waiters dropped our drinks because he was too shaky. 

In many towns, a drummer will walk through the neighborhoods - street by street - waking people up to eat before sunrise (am very happy the drummers are done). Then the evening call to prayers from the mosque gives the ok to break the fast.


After 30 days the end of Ramadan is celebrated with Bayram.  Here in turkey, that means you travel 'home' to where you family lives - like Christmas time.  And then you have 3 days of eating sweets and visiting friends and family. Younger people go and visit older people (so because we are staying with mark's mom, we have had alot of visitors). The younger person kisses the hand of the older person and then touches the hand to their forehead as a greeting and receives candy, money or a gift in return. To the kids, this is like Halloween in that they come to the door and kiss the hand - get candy in return. (advertising is huge starting w/Ramadan - commercials/ads wish people happy Ramadan and then Bayrm from the sponsor, and candy ads jump just before Bayram)  People get dressed up in their finest outfits. Mark's niece is a hairdresser and worked until 3am the night before Bayram to get her clients ready.

Visits typically last 20 minutes and everyone is served homemade baklava if the household made it (I've seen no store bought baklava served) or some special dessert. Then up you go to the next house, to do it again.  Mark's family tends to stay up very late and then sleep in.  We've been surprised to have dressed up visitors arrive while we are still in our pj's!

Those drummers come back as well.  They stand outside of each door and bang the drum and even start singing loudly. Their objective is to annoy you enough to pay them to leave. Some people give money, others give gifts like kitchen towels or olive oil. The drummer has helpers to assist in being annoying and also in carrying the loot.

Mark's family prepared for Bayram with one full day of baklava preparation. His mom is the master filo dough maker and literally rolls out each filo layer for the baklava. I was the dough ball maker and nut spreader (i'm told these are highly specialized tasks given only to skilled craftsmen....and visiting relatives).  The extended family showed up with their dough so that mark's mom could roll their dough.  So, ana worked for over 8 hours rolling dough - with no food or drink! I was exhausted for her.

Mixing the dough

Unending rolling of each filo layer

The baklava pans are so big that they have to be taken to the bread baker for baking. One family member had a catastrophe - the baker burned their baklava. So he took the baker to the city to get the baker to pay for more flour and a 'cost' of remaking the baklava in time for Bayram.

precise cutting

ready for the baker!

What a Way to Wake UP!

Our last morning I was woken first by the Ramadan drummer, announcing time to eat breakfast before fasting was to begin, then the mosque call to prayers, then the unmistakable sound of a large propane burner shooting a flame.  The last sound catapulted me out of the bed as the sun was just coloring the horizon.  I threw on some jeans, grabbed my camera and ran barefoot up the 5 flights of windy stone steps to the roof deck of our hotel.  This is what I saw.

after an hour of watching from the roof, i crawled back into bed. this is the view from my pillow!

Sights in Goreme

Can you tell Goreme is a backpacker haven?

alternate transportation

Pigeon houses along rock cliffs - built by people

typical transportation

interesting Goreme doors. design details are typical

More Goreme doors

this color blue appears alot

Goreme attracts an interesting mix of people from all over the world. We saw alot of Australians, Germans, Italians and ALOT of Japanese traveling through.  Parked in front of the mosque one evening was a Harley Davidson motorcycle complete with leather saddlebags and huge backpack. The helmet was painted with stars and bars - so I commented to Mark that the driver was from the South...US that is.  Sure enough, the license plate was from Alabama and the driver looked like he was a star in Easy Rider. Quite a site in the small dusty town of Goreme.  I expected to see mostly young, college aged backpackers, but was surprised to find that at least half the people we ran into (not traveling in tour groups) were our age and older - but not from US. 

Pigeons are important to this area of the country.  The soil is poor quality but the area survived on agriculture (before tourism started). So, the pigeon poop provided valuable fertilizer. For centuries, the people would encourage pigeons to live in the area by carving out pigeon caves for them on sheer sides of the rocks to prevent creatures from eating the pigeons. In more recent times agriculture has diminished in importance and fertilizer could be purchased, so the pigeon caves were not maintained by humans and many pigeons were killed by critters like squirrels.  Today, the residents are trying to grow the pigeon population by working on the pigeon caves.

The housing in the area is made from carved out rock, typically with additional rooms built using stone. Some buildings now are fully stone made, but all contain interesting detail work around windows, doors and along the building facade. This carries into the inside of the buildings as well which give the stone walls alot of character.  I fell in love with the old doors and weathered wood. The white walls in each building are accented with deep colors of turkish carpets. Beautiful!