Our introduction to Barcelona from the Pyrenees countryside was driving into bustling traffic where traffic lights are suggestions. Turk was not happy and it was worse when we had trouble finding the access road to our apartment hotel located on the exclusive, and busy, Passeig de Gracia. I may have been a less than helpful navigator as I was seeing Gaudi's Casa Mila, and exclusive stores Channel, Dior, Gucci, etc. I finally refocused and we got where we needed to be, a renovated mansion fronting the street. Our 2 bedroom, 2 bath apartment was fully equipped and we luckily faced the quiet rear of the building where the backyards were located for all the residences. While the building had been totally renovated, they left the original elevator, over 100 years old!
This street, area is historically significant because the original city was confined within walls. But in 1854 these walls were largely demolished to expand the city. Engineer Ildefonso Cerdà created 'chamfered' grids where the face of each corner building is diagonal to the street, opening up the look and feel of each block. And, unlike the walled city, the streets were an organized grid pattern. Passeig de Gracia was the boulevard connecting the old walled city with the Vila de Gracia. This became the most exclusive street in Barcelona. But buildings had to meet a conservative and rigid standard to be in compliance.
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| turk enjoys his view |
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| elevator buttons |
Rarely taking the elevator, we got our exercise being on the 3rd (really 4th in the US) floor. Over 100 steps each way, at least 4 round trips a day. No wonder we didnt put on weight.
With a focus on architecture, we had a wonderful informative local guide take us around the city.
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| Casa Mila by Gaudi - revolutionary and hated by all residents of the exclusive Gracia area |
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| Gaudi was inspired by water, ironwork all unique |
most buildings had entry staircase and ornate ceiling glass work. this was the garage entrance, really where the carriages dropped people off from the street. the living spaces are upstairs.
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| manse owned by chocolatier Amatller |
Antoni Amatller, a famous chocolatier broke the strict building regulations when he transformed a 'typical' structure to this ornate building in 1900. Later, Gaudi would do the same.
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| gargoyles of course! |
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| ya, a garage entrance |
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| the modern kitchen (with espresso?) |
Then a hop on the subway to get out on famous walking avenue Las Ramblas in the old town!
It was under construction, but still very busy. From there was wandered around the Gothic and Jewish Quarters.
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| Miro mosaic on Ramblas |
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| former umbrella factory |
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| dragon holding lantern, fan. |
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| umbrellas everywhere! |
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| am fascinated with the umbrella building, BBVA bank now |
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| ancient 'exit' sign for 1 way street |
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| Picasso drawing applied to stone wall in Gothic Quarter |
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| The Kiss!! Tho Turk looks skeptical |
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| Barcelona's old walls and towers |
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| mail slot for courts. Turtle indicates speed of legal system! |
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| shells holes from Spanish Civil War |
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| beautiful courtyard in Gothic Quarter |
A surprise was finding the Temple of Augustus Roman columns from 1st cent BC within a building courtyard in the Gothic district. People utilized the columns over the centuries, as we see everywhere, and they were 'lost' until the late1800s as this structure was being constructed.
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| Temple of Augustus |
Within the Jewish quarter, it was common to find very small cafes, each with wonderful smells wafting into the alley. One of these alleys is called
Carrer Salomo Ben Adret. We ducked into one of these, tho all were recommended by our guide. We were not disappointed. The 7 table restaurant was serviced by the manager and an assistant. The menu was such that prepped ingredients could easily be assembled and cooked in short order. The food was somewhat middle eastern/modern/Moroccan. Tho the owner was from Venezuela. Delicious and cozy - perfect after a busy morning seeing the city.
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| bottom is eggplant, top mixed veggies, on fresh grilled bread |
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| the 'kitchen' and dining room |
The main square in Old Town combines the palace- Palau Reial Major, the Cathedral and a number of museums including one of the largest underground ruins of a Roman town (under these buildings). So much going on.
Ran out of time to tour the fascinating Palace of Music. The ornate outside only teases what is on the inside.
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| flea market outside cathedral - need a gas mask? |
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| Palau de la Muscia Catalana |
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| Casa Batllo at night |
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| another Turk fave-steak you cook at table |
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| Mercat de la Boqueria |
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| all types of eggs |
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| lunch fried anchovies w/sweet vermouth |
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| hazelnut gelato! |
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| turk's preferred gelato source-Gothic quarter |
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| maybe..peanut butter? |
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| dinner-eggplant, hummus |
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| finding more tapas! |
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| Mussol-great local food |
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| turk and Catalan stew |
Time to explore Casa Batllo by Gaudi. The wealthy, of course, Batllo family hired Gaudi to completely remake their home by 1906. It opened to the public in 1995 and is now a UNESCO site.
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| interior stairway, airwell |
Such focus on details including lighting for the home which partially depends on the central lightwell. Tiles
go from light blues at lower level to darker blues at top. Windows
larger at bottom, smaller at top. This was to maintain consistent light
throughout the house. Gaudi based his homes on nature, so there are no straight lines. Even for doors and windows.
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| interior door and transom |
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| windows facing Gracia. All completely open to become like a balcony |
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| even ceilings have movement |
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| unique tile design, application |
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| attic with ribbing, servant area |
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| rooftop tilework |
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| made it to the roof! |
Turkish artist Refik Anadol created an everchanging NFT of Casa Batllo. My understanding is that it constantly picks up new images of Casa Batllo to incorporate into a constantly evolving image. Was interesting to watch, so a short video of it is below. Same artist also created an immersive colorful imagery experience in the basement that was a bit dizzying.
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| Banksy museum! |
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| searches? |
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| Ukraine and Putin |
