Tuesday, November 5, 2024

Pyrenees Hiking - Park National Ordesa Mt Perdido

 The Pyrenees are impressive, beautiful and really dont look like other mountains. France is just across their peaks and the people here are fiercely Basque. Fall colors were everywhere. We were happy to have seen snow only on the high peaks.

along the drive
The Turk's highlight for the day was our interruption by a herd of sheep being moved to a different pasture, via the highway. This drive is one of the beautiful I've done. All indications are that this area is wildly popular with outdoor enthusiasts for summer sports. Didnt see ski slopes, but I can imagine there are winter sports here too.  Fall is a quiet time.

one of many small towns on our way to Torla located at entrance of Ordesa Nat'l Park

Hiking day at Parque Nacional de Ordesa e Monte Perdido. We hiked the Cola de Caballo-hike to Caballo Falls which is 5 hr, over 11 miles. With the flooding storms, much of the trail was muddy or flooded which slowed us down. So, to ensure daylight, we hiked about 10 miles in 5 hrs. Fall colors! Fall weather! 
we werent the only ones impressed

1st of several Falls

more falls
     
parts of trail were RUSTIC

more falls
 

hikers!




































who's idea was this?!

 
wow! Mt. Perdido






















because, plank the pyrenees
























the river we've been following - on the right. 


another view of the 'end' of our hike. of course, we now had to get BACK.

view from Torla

Looking at national parkland from Torla

wonderful restaurant
  Have to talk about the food in Torla: rustic, game and fish focused. After that hike we could have eaten the trees so game sounded just fine. We waited at the front door of Restaurant Atalya Torla for them to open at 7:30 and were the first customers. The  moment the door opened, we felt like we'd walked into someone's home with meat roasting in the oven. We soon find out, its roasted lamb. Done! Turk and I had 4 course meal including dessert, bottle of wine, bottle of water for $40. Turk still talks about that meal - it was so delicious, homey nourishing.
baby eel salad...ya
the roasted lamb










 
marscapone cheesecake with raspberries











Then on to Barcelona passing these! Little did we know we would be visiting them in a couple days.


Monday, November 4, 2024

Medieval Village Visit - Sos del Rey Catolico

 Sos del Rey Catolico is the town where King Ferdinand (ya, the King who married Isabel who paid Christopher Columbus to take that trip to the Americas).  Ferdinand and Isabel, each with their own kingdoms, united to fight the remaining Moors who were defeated in Granada in 1492, same year of Columbus's discovery.  At that point, the royal couple combined their lands to create modern Spain.

We explored the very quiet village (not really tourist season), and got to stay in a parador with beautiful views. We also were the only patrons at a Michelin 'mentioned' restaurant in town. A private meal!

people do still live in this village, but mostly to support tourism
typical narrow street of Jewish quarter
the road less taken
























cloudy, quiet






























We wandered the quiet streets and decided to check out a Benedictine monastery nearby. It has been in operation since 10th century. Daily mass includes gregorian chants - which we missed :'(

the Monastery












they gave me a key to the abbey!

this part is no longer used


Portal of the church. Many interesting creatures

here they are!

beautiful resting setting, mountains behind, lake in front.














Sunday, November 3, 2024

North to Basque Country, Pamplona, San Sebastian, Bilbao

 Our drive north to the Atlantic coast once again went by a number of hilltop castles....so many castles! 

showing off being Basque
bull have to be somewhere, even if fake

Then we discovered San Sebastian, called Donostia by the Basque locals. Two languages are regularly spoken here: Spanish and Basque. About 100 years ago, the Queen of Spain's doctor prescribed coming here to spend time at the beach for her health. Since then, Donostia developed into an elegant seaside resort now known for its excellent pintxos (tapas) and Michelin restaurants, and beautiful beaches. 

The crescent beach is bookended with mountain peaks that provide a wonderful view. We walked up one, and took the funicular up the other.
going up!







Bay of La Concha
so many choices!

Old town

old town toward beach

scallops, beef sandwich
 Turk and I did a 3 hour pinxtos tour. These are high quality 'tapas' on bread, equating to 2 bites each. You get a drink and pinxto, eat and drink up, then move to the next place. We visited 5 spots in 3 hrs. A cute 24 yr old guy from a prominent local wine family -Muga- was our guide. He knew his history and the food. We learned about San Sebastian's gastronomic societies, 160 with about 100 members each. You must be invited to join, and it is open to men and women-tho really only men. Each society owns a professional kitchen and dining area-like a restaurant. One or a few times each week, several men members pur have the ingredients and cook a meal for members and their guests. The chefs also clean. No women allowed in the kitchen. These societies are the core of social and civic life here. Our guide inherited his membership from his grandfather. We ate this way every day we visited and were never disappointed, or bored!
chorizo
                                                                             
txuleta-steak pinxto

hybrid taco pintxo
  
Maria Christina bridge

elegant lighting, dragons!
  
      
wine by our tourguide's family

bridge cherubs


 









 
 
Christ at the peak  Mt Urguell


   



















  










 
beautiful view of sunset from fort


Our walk up the peak at the Old Town end of town took us to a fort, topped with a guarding Christ.





more views from Mt Urguell




   



















Then on to Bilbao to see the Frank Gehry designed museum and art. 
side view of this amazing building

more fluid walls
   
giant spider guards the museum
























































faves: Jeff Koons Tulips

Andy Warhol wallpaper











my image of skylight

same skylight!























another fun shot of same area

Back in San Sebastian getting ready for the next location!