On to Carmona and Cordoba and Jean for Olive Oil

 Drove to Carmona on way to Cordoba. Love me some cemeteries, so visited Roman necropolis
where the significant event was dropping my sunglasses into the deepest tomb. This required Antonio to climb into said tomb to retrieve glasses. Am hoping no Roman spirits were disturbed.

In Carmona enjoying the sunshine, and cat-on right, under door

 

The necropolis of Carmona is from the 1st century, discovered in the late 1800s by a local archeologist. Cremated bodies were placed in a niche of the family owned underground rock chamber along with offerings. This necropolis showed us all of this. When peering down into a deep chamber, my sunglasses leapt from my head straight down the burial chamber. OOPS! 

a chamber with niches

Antonio starts sunglass retrieval process

Antonio finds the glasses in deepest tomb, and successfully climbs out

Carmona city: castle and cathedral

Cordoba is a beautiful city very much about Arabic architecture and history.  Annual artistic exhibit-this year highlighted spices/herbs which were used in sculptures, street art.  What really made us awestruck tho was the mosque cathedral. Literally the world's largest mosque at the time, then filled with Christian churches and used as cathedral. Boggles the imagination.

amazing hotel, our balcony on left

burrata arugula pesto lunch

vermouth is BIG in Spain

example of silver filigree

clay artisan

silversmith making filigree

sculpture with plants

closeup of orchids

close up of herbs, veggies

street art honoring bullfighter - in herbs, veggies

ceiling details

unusual double arches. each column different - reused Roman

Mosque overlayed with Christian Byzantine mosaics

Muslim arches open to this, a bascilica

 

Left side not refurbished

Muslim arch overlaid with Christian art. Muslim arches retained behind this.

Brass side door

Cordoba synagogue converted to Christian Church-see cross

Remembering that the Jewish population also had a presence, we visited the Jewish Quarter of Cordoba. As elsewhere, the streets were narrow and the buildings taller as families had to live in designated areas. 

We found the main synagogue, converted to a Christian church during the Inquisition. Likely these converted Jews practiced Judaism under the guise of Christian services.

Roman bridge over Guadalquivir River -the only major navigable river in Spain. but no longer from Cordoba

Flamenco dancing started with the gypsies and is a signature dance style of Spain. Not only does this include dance, but also music and a very loud singing with clapping and foot stomping. Very energetic and 

beautiful, intense women

mesmerizing dancers

singer

 Our last evening in Cordoba was spent at a brasa restaurant - meat. We had no reservations, but went at opening time thinking we'd find a table. They were completely booked, floors 1,2 and 3 - filled. We were taken to each floor just to make sure with the floor manager. Then, the restaurant maitre'd took us up one more floor. Tables were set, but no one was there. We were seated and had the evening to ourselves with plenty of waitstaff trudging up that last floor to take care of us. Dinner was remarkably delicious - beef cheeks, huge pork loin, 2 glasses of wine all for about $44. Leaving, we made our way to the ground floor to find people crowded in the lobby and out the door. No idea why the Turk and I had a private room with no reservation - but we enjoyed our special evening.

dinner!

after 2 hours in the bascilica

Headed east to the center of Spains olive oil industry around the city of Jaen (said with a guttural sound for the J). Mostly family owned olive groves, like in Turkey. The family who gave us a tour has adopted modern techniques and a focused marketing plan thanks to the 2 sons who have taken over dads business. But still so similar to Marks family olive growing techniques. Of course we caused a disturbance by parking in obvious parking space. A man ran over and yelled at us, waving his arms. Clueless, we moved the car over until he smiled at us. Seems he was trying to paint parking lines right where we parked! 

Spain is largest producer of olive oil

the parking space painter

Green olives-most valuable oil, and also producing least amount of oil per olive it was around here that I got sprayed by green olive juice all over my white top. I looked like an authentic olive employee.

fresh picked olives

green olive oil

 

From castle atop mountain overlooking Jaen. Moor fortress, then Christian, then napoleon's fortress, then spanish. Whew! Now overlooks Jaen.  Cross is a short footpath from castle. And of course we walked there.

viewing the ridge from the fortress

to the cross!!!

Surprising Seville

 Train to Seville for a few days. Orange trees, olives trees everywhere. Old town is lively-tourists, locals, families and so many well dressed babies and toddlers. Many many babies! Mosques converted to churches look like...mosques converted to churches! Walked around the twisty alleys of Jewish Quarter with hidden plazas, ornate grillwork, stunning fabrics and hand painted fans. Delicious tapas! Surprising architecture. 

hand painted fan

embroidered shawl

  

ornate ironwork on bridge

curved corner tile sign

Seville is beautiful city with a complex history of animosity and alliances between the Christians and the Moors/Muslims and Jews. We got to see this with the architecture, and the food. We explored the Plaza de Espana -looking for Star Wars characters, the Seville Cathedral, the Real Alcazar (palace in Arabic. Longest used palace in Europe-being used by Spains King as he followed us to each city!), and the Mushroom-largest wooden structure in the world. Who knew!

Plaza de Espana built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929

canal with 4 bridges, ornate tiles

such detailed work

The Cadiz alcove

The tiled alcoves around the semi-circular plaza each represent a different Spanish province. Each bench is flanked by decorated bookshelves where people place, and borrow, books relating to the province.

light poles are tile covered

end tower of plaza

Adorning the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de la Encarnacion is the largest wooden structure in the world - the Mushroom, or las Setas de Seville, opened in 2011.  It was built to revitalize a deteriorating neighborhood. It is a very active area now with events, music, restaurants. You can climb to the top and walk around a walkway overlooking the city, and the light show that happens each evening within the squares.

exploring the mushroom

 

sunset overlooking Seville from Mushroom

busking flamenco

Real Alcazar - Mudejar style palace, longest used in Europe

Moorish courtyard

10th cent Muslim palace, adopted by KingPedro 14th cent

mudejar architecture: Moorish with Christian influences

see Jewish influence as well

The Cathedral de Santa Maria was, as many Spanish cathedrals, built on the site of a mosque in 1400s. It is the largest in Spain, and largest Gothic cathedral in the world.  Christopher Columbus, or part of him, is entombed here.

Main altar. Only Royal weddings here.

former minaret, then bell tower

      

Columbus tomb - Spanish Jewish, not Italian Christian!

 

stuffed crock was gift to princess

Time to learn to cook PAELLA! Went to Triana Market. This part of town is where the gypsies lived - and the origins of the Flamenco. Also known for where the tile factories were located. Last meal in Seville was in a park behind the church near our hotel. Mostly locals,buskers added musical ambience. Lovely evening.

Triana Market

 

spinach garbanzo stew

finished paella!

smashing garlic

replica of one of Magellan's ships that left Seville to sail around the world

typical home tile in Triana

anchovies, tuna nicoise salad, croquettes

fried sardines

ceviche

 

turk shops for pig leg!

delicious bean stew

seafood with mousse

 

Seville Jewish quarter - door

Spain's marker for Jewish Quarter

Jewish quarter narrow street

Spain's marker for Jewish Quarter, shape of Iberian Peninsula, shows border of Portugal and the Hebrew letters for Sepheric Jew. We saw this throughout Spain.

Turk makes trouble

beautiful Moor influence

much needed foot reprieve

finish line-marathon!

decorative floor tile

 

old and new

house art

unfinished on right - ran out of funds

stunning altar

traditional to Seville. Inspired KKK in US.

Brotherhoods in Spain, particularly in Seville, where hoods and robes are worn during Holy Week representing the wearer as a penitent as they walk through the streets.  Hoods like these were worn during the inquisition by those condemned to death. Very disturbing to see statues and souvenirs in town representing this custom.

And, I found the Barber of Seville!!!