Monday, October 21, 2024

Surprising Seville

 Train to Seville for a few days. Orange trees, olives trees everywhere. Old town is lively-tourists, locals, families and so many well dressed babies and toddlers. Many many babies! Mosques converted to churches look like...mosques converted to churches! Walked around the twisty alleys of Jewish Quarter with hidden plazas, ornate grillwork, stunning fabrics and hand painted fans. Delicious tapas! Surprising architecture. 

hand painted fan

embroidered shawl
  
ornate ironwork on bridge

curved corner tile sign



















Seville is beautiful city with a complex history of animosity and alliances between the Christians and the Moors/Muslims and Jews. We got to see this with the architecture, and the food. We explored the Plaza de Espana -looking for Star Wars characters, the Seville Cathedral, the Real Alcazar (palace in Arabic. Longest used palace in Europe-being used by Spains King as he followed us to each city!), and the Mushroom-largest wooden structure in the world. Who knew!


Plaza de Espana built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929

canal with 4 bridges, ornate tiles


such detailed work





















The Cadiz alcove

The tiled alcoves around the semi-circular plaza each represent a different Spanish province. Each bench is flanked by decorated bookshelves where people place, and borrow, books relating to the province.
light poles are tile covered

end tower of plaza
Adorning the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de la Encarnacion is the largest wooden structure in the world - the Mushroom, or las Setas de Seville, opened in 2011.  It was built to revitalize a deteriorating neighborhood. It is a very active area now with events, music, restaurants. You can climb to the top and walk around a walkway overlooking the city, and the light show that happens each evening within the squares.

exploring the mushroom
 


sunset overlooking Seville from Mushroom

busking flamenco










Real Alcazar - Mudejar style palace, longest used in Europe



Moorish courtyard


10th cent Muslim palace, adopted by KingPedro 14th cent
























mudejar architecture: Moorish with Christian influences

see Jewish influence as well
The Cathedral de Santa Maria was, as many Spanish cathedrals, built on the site of a mosque in 1400s. It is the largest in Spain, and largest Gothic cathedral in the world.  Christopher Columbus, or part of him, is entombed here.
Main altar. Only Royal weddings here.
















former minaret, then bell tower

      






















Columbus tomb - Spanish Jewish, not Italian Christian!
 
stuffed crock was gift to princess










Time to learn to cook PAELLA! Went to Triana Market. This part of town is where the gypsies lived - and the origins of the Flamenco. Also known for where the tile factories were located. Last meal in Seville was in a park behind the church near our hotel. Mostly locals,buskers added musical ambience. Lovely evening.

Triana Market
 
spinach garbanzo stew

finished paella!

smashing garlic

replica of one of Magellan's ships that left Seville to sail around the world

typical home tile in Triana























anchovies, tuna nicoise salad, croquettes



















fried sardines

ceviche
 
turk shops for pig leg!

delicious bean stew

seafood with mousse
 
Seville Jewish quarter - door
Spain's marker for Jewish Quarter

Jewish quarter narrow street
Spain's marker for Jewish Quarter, shape of Iberian Peninsula, shows border of Portugal and the Hebrew letters for Sepheric Jew. We saw this throughout Spain.
Turk makes trouble

beautiful Moor influence

much needed foot reprieve


finish line-marathon!

decorative floor tile
 
old and new


house art

unfinished on right - ran out of funds
stunning altar

traditional to Seville. Inspired KKK in US.





















Brotherhoods in Spain, particularly in Seville, where hoods and robes are worn during Holy Week representing the wearer as a penitent as they walk through the streets.  Hoods like these were worn during the inquisition by those condemned to death. Very disturbing to see statues and souvenirs in town representing this custom.

Friday, October 18, 2024

Holy Toledo!

 At one time, this ancient walled town was home to Jews, Moors and Christians. Queen Isabel (Chris Columbus' funder) got rid of all but the Christians. But the influence of all is strong.

bridge to Toledo walled town

Monestery-only 6 Franciscan monks left here
























pottery in underground cave












motherly Mary

Amazing cathedral. After it was built, artisan was funded to customize one of the side chapels-see below. 

Architect cut a hole in the roof and created this! Also see a red floating hat. These hang from ceiling over graves of cardinals.





































Monstranse - used to carry the consecrated host during a Corpus Christi procession


Synagogue built by Moors

Synagogue built by Moors-paid by the Jews. Converted to Christian church. Now a museum. The columns adorned with Pineapples-have meaning only to the Moors at the time as a fruit of welcome.

panorama of Toledo - beautiful, friendly city